I don't usually look at the Packard service bulletins but did look at the following one. It says it all.

STB 52T-28, Dealer 21

Check it out.

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Yes Owen however under all conditions except maybe when the outside temperature is very cold say 30 degrees or less the engine will run at temperatures above the stated thermostat temperature.


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Kev, I fully agree with you and Eric.


Again, Only my opinion.

does the gauge peg or does it just go up to half way??
When it "overheats" does it boil over? The water temperature will never stay at the 160 degrees that the thermostat is set to. The thermostat is there so the engine gets up to operating temperature as quickly as possible. It is not there to regulate the temp at the 160 degrees. BTW why didn't you install the thermostat the is called for in the engine documentation. Think it is 180 or 190 degrees.



Again, Only my opinion. Others will disagree.

You are dealing with a 53 year old transmission here. If you want it to last as long as possible I would not ever start in low and then shift to high. this was not intended to be done by the people who created the transmission. Starting in low and shifting to the high range after the direct drive clutch has closed is extremely hard on the transmission. Don't ever do that. As others here have said the car was designed for leisurely but smooth take off. It is a road car not a drag racer. luxury is the word here.

This is only my opinion. Take it for what it's worth. I'm sure others will disagree.

To quote RustyQuote:

I agree with Rusty. I have had cast iron sucessfully welded but agree with others here that an exhaust manifold is not a very good candidate. It operates at very high temperatures. Believe the crack would just reappear again.

I just had a manifold crack. In fact a quarter size chunk fell out. I located a used replacement. And yes by all means have the exhaust/intake assembly surfaced wether you weld the old or replace it with a used one.



Added note: Welcome back Eric.

Back in the late 60s and 70s when I was in the Navy working on the LTV A7 aircraft we used the micrometer type torque wrenches exclusively. The bending bar type were not used at all. I often wondered how accurate and more so how repeatable the micrometer type were. They were sent to calibration on a regular bassis.

Just a thought, The drop on the radiator cap could be wrong. Don't remember what it should be but you can measure the radiator neck. With cap removed,of corse, measure the distance from the top surface of the filler neck to the surface inside where the cap is supposed to seal and compare that to the cap. You may find out that the cap you have may only measure 3/4" where the filler neck measures 1 inch. It would be like running the car with the cap removed. When I got my car the cap was wrong which caused pretty much the same thing you are experiencing.



Good Luck

Note: the engine may be boiling over and then overheating not overheating and then boiling over. That statement should generate some discussion.

Owen, Don't know if I just got a bad set or if all the sets are like this. I found the NOS cam gear so I wanted to keep and use the crank gear from the set. That's why I haven't sent it back to Kanter. I've had this set for 6 months by now. They probably wouldn't take it back at this late date anyway.

I really wish we hadn't driven the manufacture of these parts to China. Just a story, A friend of mine replaced an original GM starter in a 73 350 that was in the car over 20 years with a new, not rebuilt, starter from China. It hardly lasted 6 months and is shot. Same thing with an electric window motor from China I bought for my 73 Charger. Yes I did grease everything before it went back together. The junk plastic gears failed. At least it wasn't poisonous.

Does any one have experience with the timing gear and chain sets from Kanter? I bought a set a wile back from them because of the price. The crank gear looks to be NOS but the cam gear and chain were in packaging marked made in China. Can't say much regarding the cam gear except that the casting looks a little rough. The problem I have is the chain. It seems to fit the cam gear but rides up very high on the crank gear. You have to force the chain down into the gear. It just seems like the chain is built wrong. I showed this set to a mechanic friend of my and he says he would not use the set at all. Any thoughts?

I can buy a NOS cam gear but have been unable to find a NOS timing chain. Anyone have a NOS chain they would sell? Please PM me if you do.


PS. It just occured to me that I should have started a new thred with this. Kev could you please delete this from this thred? Thanks

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Couldn't resist this one. For all the guys that are convinced that 12 volts is the only way.


My 51 starts after sitting over night with less than one full turn. After a week when the crappy gas has evaporated somewhat maybe has to turn 3 to 4 revolutions. My engine is worn out with 60K on it. The compression is all over the place. #8 cylinder only has 60 pounds compression. It still starts well with a 6 volt system. Should prove that when the carb, spark and the wireing are correct 6 volts is all you need.