My dad used to use paper match book striker strips. Had some heft to it with the paper backing. He drove nothing but Packards for 30 years.
When he passed away he still had 22 Packards in the "stable".

Howard,
The Fog Has Lifted.
Your last post defined the problem in a number of ways. Thanks for clarifying that the "carburetor switch"= starter switch, and that Throttle switch=OD kick down switch or as I called it initially, the "accelerator switch"
With that clarification, I was able to look at both the colored wiring (birds eye view) diagram and your 46/47 wiring schematic with color coding reference and it all made sense.
Aside from the reversed wiring the shop did on the solenoid relay (456-123) connections, there were other areas that were not addressed as in grounding the generator to Light junction ground terminals.
Also, for what ever reason, the often referenced OD solenoid and OD/EC device became the "governor" which is easier to understand.
Multimeter and long alligator clip wire and I will make sure that continuity is correct in all the ignition series wiring components.
Hope to light this candle sometime next week. Thanks again
Cheers,
Sparky....lol
PS....in case any watching were wondering...my son ties my shoes:)

None of the equipment in picture above is present so I will cap off the green with eye (heat shrink) as well as the 2 (?) G/R pairs. I did find a red cable not connected at the OD/EC control. The shop had labeled it "governor". Guess that can be capped as well.
Have traced out the OD lockout switch wiring located on lockout cable next to wheel. One wire going to the accelerator switch at carburetor (carburetor switch) black/red tracer. Haven't traced the other one yet.
ohmed out the wiring from generator to voltage regulator and all seems fine.
Still a bit confused from Big Kev's wiring diagram as it has an "ignition" switch (key)to coil, also has a "starter switch/car starter" along with a "throttle switch"
Guessing throttle switch and carburetor switch are the same but wondering what the "starter switch is referring to. The diagram resembles the carburetor switch in configuration and wiring but.....
Also, the carburetor switch shows continuity with minor resistance prior to advancing throttle linkage...? seems a bit odd.
In another week, I do have the owner of my local car shop who has agreed to spend a morning or afternoon sorting thru the starting issue. He has a '38 Packard that is about 90% restored and is somewhat familiar with the brand at least. Just trying to get as many questions answered as possible prior to that. Thanks for your patience.
Bob

Howard,
I'm pretty sure you are correct on the mis-labeling issue. At the tail end of the wiring harness as it connects to starter solenoid, the two R-G pair might be unnecessary at which point I will heat shrink the connections to avoid any possible contact. Out of one of the loom end runs, one R-G pair, and a single green wire with eye end, runs out in engine compartment. Pretty sure that is the correct area for that portion of loom run since the wires connected to starter solenoid are exiting just prior to the R-G pair and Green single wire. There isn't much excess wire in at the starter solenoid connection.
The green single wire is labeled "direct speed switch" and one of your diagram/drawings shows the "direct speed"switch possibly associated with the electromagnetic clutch (which I think we determined the car isn't equipped with). Just trying to clarify where that single green might connect if it connects at all. It is long enough to reach the forward end of engine. Not sure if it would reach to switch for overdrive at transmission location. Scratchin' head again but meanwhile busy sorting out wiring fiasco from resto shop. Won't even go into details but the wiring at OD solenoid was completely reversed. Hoping I haven't lost a coil or other damaged circuit.
Cheers
Bob

Howard,
As I compared your photos of overdrive solenoid and the color wire diagram from Big Kev, it was obvious that 4 and 6 were reverse connected. Also, two of the bottom wires were in the wrong position (1 and 3??). I switched 4/6 and still had the short. Then switched the bottom terminals to match correct color/terminal numbers. No short:). However, I don't have a complete circuit to starter so will have to trace that issue.
I think I understand now, my reference to accelerator switch was really the overdrive kickdown right at accelerator pedal. I did know that the carburetor switch was mounted on carb base and engaged by the throttle linkage. Details coming back slowly.
Saw your reply regarding fog lights/EC switch. My car does have the fog light dash switch but no lights were installed. The control cable and knob I believe are strictly mechanical disconnect for the OD so EC not installed as option....I guess.
Direct speed switch I have not located however, the green wire in loom has an eye that is not attached. It is labeled Direct speed switch and is long enough to reach the back 2/3 of engine compartment. Mystery still remains on the two unattached pairs of red and green with round pin connectors. There is no obvious place to connect except one to the other with bakelite butt connection. The two greens ohm out as "common" but the reds do not. Scratchin' head. Will keep digging...Thanks for all your input.
Cheers

Once again, some of the mystery disappears, thanks to the drawings, photos, and, explanations. Apologies for my rudimentary descriptions...just going from memory, which is rapidly approaching max MB limit:)
Will be back with more questions I'm sure. Hoping to get past the short in overdrive relay wiring tomorrow, and then work down line from there.
The good news: at least the starting circuits work and with that in place I can turn the engine over briefly to circulate the oil. That has been a major concern.
Thanks again to all
Cheers

Howard,
Nice piece of information otherwise hidden from view. Referencing your picture and Big Kevs color wiring diagram, It looks like the green top wire needs to move to opposite corner (6) and swap "6" over to 4. "5" and "2" are good but the bottom connections likely have to move 1>3, 3>1. Having those numbers shown helps solve a part of the problem. There may be others.
Hate to sound ignorant on this car since I first rode in it 64 years ago, but I don't think this car has the electromatic clutch though fairly sure it has the R-9 trans. No switch on the dash references that option. Narraganset Wiring included that pair in the harness but they weren't sure if I needed it or could use it.
Thanks again John and Howard for shedding some light on the subject.
I'll dive in in earnest tomorrow...

stay tuned
Cheers

That sounds vaguely familiar. I will see if I can reference the color diagram to double check the wiring on the firewall mounted relay. So top left green wire would go bottom left and same across the rest of terminals....if I understand your concept. Thanks again

John, Thanks for the quick input. I thought I remembered reading that the OD wiring could easily be wired wrong and reversing leads would correct it. Just couldn't find that reference. Also found Big Kev's color wiring diagram for the 21st series cars...my old ones are getting a bit tired.

Cheers

Again....working on loose ends (literally) wiring etc and have an issue with electrical connections under the bonnet. Had a new Narraganset wiring harness installed and gradually wired to circuits as the car progressed. Generally, with exception of radio and heater connections, other minor interior lighting, door switches, head light switches etc were completed and tested with no issues. Rebuilt engine had been started several times but not thru the final ignition switch wiring. Before taking it from resto shop, I had them do the final wiring to ignition.
At test, battery had been connected but needed a charge to test the starting circuits. After charging for 30 minutes, bumped the starter and the engine turned over as normal...no gas but did have starter engaged.
Once back in my garage (roll back delivery), I hooked up a trickle charger after disconnecting the hot lead. After charging overnight, disconnected the charger. When I went to put the hot lead on the post, got a significant spark (10-15amps approx) and the overdrive relay, one closest to drivers side, clicked shut.
There are several wires that have not been connected including Horn relay pair, electric overdrive lock out pair (optional with harness), "?accelerator switch?" pair and direct speed switch wire.
Accel switch pair?? is big question since the accelerator switch is already wired with a pair of a different color and correct end fitting hardware instead of the "pins".
Any insights would be appreciated.

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