Re: 1938 Super 8 1605 - adventures with a newbie
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The fuel pump and glass bowl location are far down on the driver's side of the engine, nowhere near anything that would cause heat. But because it is so low on the engine assembly, it would be near impossible to get to it when the fenders and sidemounts are back on. If I put a removable filter before the carb it would be directly next to the manifold, which I'm not sure I'm a fan of.
-Kevin
Posted on: 2023/4/18 11:38
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Re: 1938 Super 8 1605 - adventures with a newbie
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Thanks for the tips. I will remove the filter from the circuit completely and snug all up the connections. I may put a filter on the outlet side, or find a solution to fit in the stock bowl just before the suction side. -Kevin
Posted on: 2023/4/18 11:18
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Re: 1938 Super 8 1605 - adventures with a newbie
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Thanks Ross. I don't know exactly what was done to the car when it was restored, besides that it appears to be a frame-off restoration. I don't know if the fuel line is original or replaced. I got underneath the car today and the fuel line is one piece from front to back. The electric pump is mounted right next to the tank, and there is a fuel filter between the pump and tank. All those connections are with flex fuel line and hose clamps. I think I will replace the fuel filter just to be safe (no idea on condition of interior of tank) and will check all the connections. How should I check the mechanical pump with a vacuum gauge? Check from the suction side? Do I need to have the pressure side blocked off? -Kevin
Posted on: 2023/4/17 23:38
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Re: 1938 Super 8 1605 - adventures with a newbie
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Hmm, I don't recall doing that. I went back and rewatched the video that I used as a guide, and sure enough he preloads the diaphragm. Well, it looks like I'll be taking the pump back off to do it right. In addition to the fuel issue, I went ahead and pulled the front left wheel cylinder off. It had a very slight leak, but enough to be noticeable. So I pulled it apart to check the bore and it looks like there are no gouges or scratches. The fluid inside was nasty with large green blobs. I have a brake hone coming from Amazon, and a rebuild kit coming from Max Merritt. I'm hoping this will firm up the brakes as they should be. -Kevin Attach file: Nasty brake fluid.jpg (82.65 KB) Wheel cylinder disassembled.jpg (99.51 KB) Cylinder bore.jpg (58.22 KB)
Posted on: 2023/4/17 17:28
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Re: 1938 Super 8 1605 - adventures with a newbie
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I am having a fuel starvation situation. I took the Super out on a "quick" road test Saturday, only planned to do 1/4 mile or so to test the vacuum system. The car died 4 times and I had to have my wife bring the truck to tow it back home.
Here are the facts: -Fuel pump newly rebuilt by me, no leaks -Carb rebuilt by me -Fresh fuel (5 gallons) in the fuel tank -Existing aux electric fuel pump near the fuel tank (works) -Line from the fuel pump to the carb confirmed clear -Car idles okay, but after giving it some gas the fuel doesn't seem to catch back up and it dies. Confirmed no fuel in the carb....accelerator pump dry. No fuel in the line from the pump the carb. Where should I start looking? I followed the directions to the letter when the fuel pump was rebuilt. I can't understand where the problem would be there. I don't know the history of the fuel tank, but the gas in the fuel bowl is clean and clear. Any thoughts? -Kevin
Posted on: 2023/4/17 11:30
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Re: Palmen barnfind
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Wow, how does one collect so many cars? I can't imagine buying a car and parking it, never to drive it again. Different strokes I guess?
-Kevin
Posted on: 2023/4/14 19:06
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Re: 1941 Packard 160
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Now that the radiator has expelled the excess fluid, it will likely drop little to none next time you drive. I made the same mistake when I had my radiator repaired. I refilled everything and it left coolant all over the ground when I got back from a drive. Never had a problem since.
-Kevin
Posted on: 2023/4/13 18:15
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Re: 327 Engine Operating Temp Range
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That all sounds normal to me. Mine is running about the same temps as yours in most situations. My gauge reads slightly higher than yours does, but engine temps with a gun are right about 170-180 in normal driving. It will creep up to 195-200 on a hot day sitting.
My understanding is that these engines have a pretty wide range of heat tolerance. In the '54 owners manual it says "the pressure type system will prevent boiling or fluid losses at temperatures up to 248 degrees". If there is no coolant boiling over then things should be fine. I monitor my temperature quite a bit because I'm slightly paranoid, but I think I worry too much. It sounds like your car is running very much like mine, which I believe is fine. -Kevin
Posted on: 2023/4/12 12:11
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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Thanks! That's the information I was looking for. I keep forgetting about the parts list. I really ought to dig into it more. -Kevin
Posted on: 2023/4/11 23:42
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