Do a GOOGLE 4 "bruce blevins packard" and a PDF file is listed.

Believe ive seen photos of PACKARDs heading for shipment in boxcars with the bumpers removed. Assuming they needed those extra few inch.

Quote:

I have a '34 '8' and a '34 su8. Im sure the 8 fan is orig. car was in unrestored cond when i go it, it is stl and thus painted black. Have photos of the su8 in sad unrestored condition in the 70s and it shows an Alum bladed fan.

Parts Book calls diff numbers for 8 and su8
8 207571
su8 209000

Bottom line is i would say the 8 got stl blade and the su got the alum. as standard. PLUS ive worked on many 8s and su8s over the yrs and this is the pattern. Back of my mind the su8 r a little larger in dia.

I believe these fans were a vendor item because ive found the exact fans on other brands.

FAN
On fans with Alum Blades RIVETS were left natural color. Assuming the blades were cut and formed from a polished sheet and then assembled to a painted hub. Thus on the painted side there r these silver rivets showing.

SPLASH SHIELDS / Engine Pans
Saw a set on a NON black chassis that had the top black and the underside the chassis color. Pretty sure it was factory. Weather they all came this way?

GLYPTAL
Ive seen this stuff used on other engine mfg but never on PACKARDs. Philosophy behind it was for casting sealing of pores and/or if there was any sand residue from casting to seal it in place. Some state for oil flow. Often wondered why PACKARD didnt use this to seal there alum casting, espeshally the pan. Ive chased oil leaks on engines for yrs and finally convinced myself that most of that oil on the floor is coming from seepage thru the engine pan alum casting pores. Few yrs back in ran across a 30s LINCOLN Service Letter that stated the outside of their crank cases and pan were painted with SILVER SHELLAC. Thinking they did this for casting sealing on the outside of the engine vrs the inside plus they got a PRETTY from it. DID PACKARD DO THIS? I think ive picked up alum paint/or on some pan nuts on virgin engines. Those cast iron rocker arms assembles got painted with something.

Know were i can order PACKARD Running Brd. Step Plate. NON will work.

Barry
keating@q.com
801 971 1034

B - id give it a torque before a new gasket. Cant loose anything but a few hrs. Its worked for me several times. Think spec was 60-62 lbs with iron head and steel nuts. Dont just pull them up but break them loose first then bring them up otherwise ur pulling against hardened old junk on the threads and u get a bad reading. Between the old threads in the block, old studs that stretch and have old threads, a gasket that likes to compress and if old nuts were used, i find u have to torque many times and even then ive lost torque a few yrs down the road.

When u brought that new car into the dealer back in 1940 for that 500 mile - 1,000 mile - or checkup, thats one of the things they did RETORQUE THE HEAD.

I figure the Nickel plating fittings is a Nail In The Coffin that ur 34 hose is factory Packard. Guess we will have to run on the premise that 35 looked the same a 34 until we find an expert.

Anyone know what the orig. Vac. Hose located on the lower end of the fuel/vac pump looked like on the '35 8s.

Steel Braided like the top fuel line?
Black lacquered ?
Other?

When reassembling the Shell to the Shutter/Rad. Assy i sometimes find need to hook the lower end first then the top end in postion.

I would check and shim the sycos if necessary, especially 3rd which u cant get to unless the trans is out.

I believe those bearings being sold are not sealed.