Are you using this method to check for misfiring cylinders?

The timing light was really struggling when I was trying to set timing. Only flashed occasionally. I'm assuming it's because I was running it off the 6 volt battery.

How do I test the coil? It's the old one that came with the car. I wouldn't mind replacing it if it would help.

The Panama has been running really rough the past few times I've turned it on. So I started from scratch and reset the timing. Spark plug out (very black, looks like it's been running rich), engine on #1 stroke, put at 7 degrees BTDC. Loosened the distributor, and used a multimeter to set it at right when the points open.

I noted the rotor appears burned, as well as the old cap. I quickly polished the rotor as a temporary fix. New rotor and cap will be coming tomorrow from NAPA.

It was still a bit rough when I started the car, so I warmed it up and worked on the timing with a light. It smoothed out eventually. I put some Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel for good measure. I have a valve that I think may be trying to stick again, so I want to keep the top end lubricated.

I threw the Panama on the lift, and checked the trans fluid, then topped it off. Also went around and checked all the brakes. I made some minor adjustments. Also adjusted the idle mixture screws.

Took the car on a 5 mile drive (cold, and still don't have windows installed) and everything worked great. Brakes, transmission, no hesitation on acceleration, no stumbling from the engine.

Also tried to make one of the pleated panels for the doors. It was moderately successful. I went to an upholsterer here in town and bought some professional glue from him, and we talked about the door panels I'm doing. In the end, he said he'd be happy to sew up the pleats for me and I can assemble the panels myself. $50 for him to do that, and it will look much better than if I do it on my crappy home machine.

-Kevin

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Snowed an inch last night, but warmed up by the afternoon. It was my day off from work today, so I prepped the '38 for the first road test.

The replacement idle mixture screws from Daytona were pretty different than the original. I had a hard time dialing it in, so I just put the old ones back in.

I cleaned out and put new oil in the oil bath air filter, then installed it. I checked a few other things, then took it out for a road test. I had my wife follow behind in case it died. I drove a couple miles, enough to test out basic running characteristics. Some notes:

-Clutch feels much better
-I'll have to get used to driving an old manual transmission. 1st gear appears to only be used for starting from a stop. Need to shift into 2nd before shifting to 1st from a start. Otherwise it tends to grind.
-Car tracked straight, but tires are a little bumpy from sitting
-Fuel sender is not reading.
-Engine overall is running okay, but shakes (no hesitation) on acceleration. Not sure if it's a engine or trans issue. Definitely not as smooth as a Packard should be.
-Brakes need work. Way too much play in the pedal
-Alternator is whining. I'm assuming the bearing is going out.
-Engine had a hard time getting up to temp. I think I will need to put in a thermostat. Can modern ones be used?

Got a ton of looks, even for such a short drive. Partly because it's a unique car, but partly because the front is missing.

-Kevin

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I did some practice and testing on some scrap pieces today. I had ordered a staple gun and 1/4" staples (Arrow PT50. The gun was only $30 and it feels great. Well made, and so far seems like it will work well.

I wanted to test how the staples would do with the hardboard, how the 1/4" scrim foam would look, how the staples would work under the stainless trim, and how the stainless would fit against the 1/4" foam.

The original padding was very minimal....maybe 1/8" at the very most. It was almost non-existent. The 1/4" foam is definitely thicker and I was worried how it would look.

I did a quick mock up to check, and it looks better than I thought. Definitely thicker and puffier than original, but I don't know that it's easily noticed. If I don't put any foam where the stainless is supposed to go, it fits fine. The only issue I'm seeing right now is the 1/4" staples stick out the back of the hardboard when it's just vinyl and hardboard. It's not totally critical, but I may need to grind off the tips after I staple.

I need to order a gallon of the good glue (Weldwood Landau Top and Trim adhesive). I also really need to practice wrapping corners. Mine are ugly.

-Kevin

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Thanks Kev, good tip about sanding on a flat surface. I'll keep that in mind if it happens again. Didn't seep from that gasket today during testing.

Last night I took on the exhaust leak. I undid the downpipe, and removed the first exhaust hanger (to allow me to better line up the flanges). I cleaned off both flanges the best I could, then applied exhaust gasket sealer to both sides of the new gasket. This stuff: VersaChem Exhaust Seal. I tightened in an alternating pattern until everything was snug. Let it sit overnight to fully cure. Zero exhaust leaks today.

Today I removed the jets and the gaskets, then made new ones from a sheet of gasket material I had from NAPA. They worked perfectly, no more leaks. I also cleaned up the threads on the fuel line to carb connection, applied some fuel safe thread sealant, then carefully tightened. I let it sit for an hour before testing. No leaks at all now.

I let it warm up in an attempt to dial in the carb, but I'm struggling. I just can't seem to get it right. I can hear the engine stumbling and it just isn't as smooth as it should be. Snappy throttle, but the engine shakes more than it should when I give it power. Maybe it's harder to dial in when it's cold out?

-Kevin

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Thanks Kev. I ended up calling Rubber the Right Way and talked to one of their guys at length. I think we found some solutions for both the front and the rear. I have some getting shipped out today, so hopefully by next week I can get it installed. Nice guys to work with over there.

-Kevin

Brother-in-law and I took a crack at rebuilding the carb last night. It didn't work as well as I had hoped.

We used a Daytona kit for it. The new accelerator pump seems to work well, but we're still struggling with leaks at the jets. The new gaskets that came in the kit didn't work well and gas was pouring out of the jets when we first started it. I put the old gaskets back on and it helped, but it still leaks. I might just make my own gaskets, unless someone else has some ideas.

I'm also getting some weeping around the main gasket above the float bowl. Old gasket was cleaned off completely and screws are all tightened down.

Interestingly, the fuel line is now leaking where it connects to the carb, whereas it didn't before. I'll have to check the flare.

And lastly, I'm trying to figure out how to adjust this thing properly. I noticed this screw that is apparently supposed to adjust the throttle linkage....it's nowhere near touching, and the spring is completely bottomed out. What is going on here?

-Kevin

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Good information. I looked up Gates and they have many truck belts to choose from. I'm going to remeasure and make sure I get the right one.

-Kevin

Thanks Kev! Slowly but surely getting there.

I had some window run channel samples come in from Rubber the Right Way today. It looks like the piece they have for the front channel (behind the vent window) will work. It has stainless beads, whereas the original does not. But the size is right and should drop right once I remove the original channel. Just not sure about the bead or not.

The sample for the rear channel does not fit in the metal frame. It is too wide. But the inside dimension is correct for the rear of the window frame....it's 1/8", which is enough or the stainless window frame to glide in.

I tried a generic channel out of curiosity. It doesn't fit that well, but technically it does work. But I'd like to have it close to original if possible.

Does anyone have a part number they used for run channel from Restoration Specialities?

-Kevin

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I had a couple minutes tonight to check a few things. First was the clutch pedal and how to adjust it. The pedal had to travel a good 4-6 inches before it engaged, making shifting hard and grinding gears. A quick check under the car showed how the linkage was to be adjusted. A few minutes later I had the clutch engaging at about 1.5"-2.0", right where the manual wants it.

Next I looked at an exhaust leak I had noticed last time I started the car. It's wear the exhaust pipe meets the manifold. The bolts are tightened all the way, but it still leaks. I have a new gasket that was in a box of parts for the car. But I don't know that it will be enough to seal on its own. Has anyone used exhaust gasket sealer?

Lastly, I'm trying to find a belt for this thing. The pulleys are huge. The widest part is about 7/8" wide, and the length I need is about 50". The guys at NAPA looked at me like I was from the moon when I asked them about that size. I don't think I can use the length that is normal for a '38 Super....this car has an alternator, plus the water pump pulley is from a '39.

-Kevin

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