I picked up the water inlet from NAPA this morning. It's cast aluminum and about 1.5" taller then the original. The bolt holes are a very close match but not close enough to bolt right on. Also the bolt holes are two small.

Hopefully I can drill out the holes to make then larger and that, in turn, will align them better with the original. I think it will be usable unless someone gives me a reason why that extra height is going to effect something else later on.

I'll keep you posted.

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I stopped by NAPA on the way home and ordered one for 97 Dodge Ram.
Should be in tomorrow.
Its $9.99 from NAPA.
Its $90.00 from Max's for one that is original & used.
I'll let you know how it goes.

Anyone know of a good parts match for the manifold water inlet flange (houses the thermostat). Mine can't is rusted through. Group 5.19127 / Part 440393

I can call Max's tomorrow but was wondering if there is a suitable match out there somewhere from another auto maker.

I would post a photo but my phone is not cooperating with me today.

Thanks

I might be interested in hearing what you have.
I am rebuilding my 700R4 now but I have already purchased that $800 conversion kit so I don't really want that to go to waste.

I have been working on the engine lately. The heads are in place and and the intake has been clean up. I got the rocker assemblies back from Michiana Packard this weekend and they look great. Its exciting to be taking parts off the shelf after 2 1/2 years. I am trying to get the engine painted before the humidity sets in this summer.

Have also got the front half of the new fuel lines in place.

I cleaned up all the head bolts this week. All of them looked nearly new except for one (seen below) . Is there a bolt that passes through the water jacket? All that rust pitting has to have a reason. I guess if that were true I would have 2 rusty bolts.

I saw in another thread that there is an Edlebrock carb that can dropped in. I have to say I am giving this some thought. I have nothing against the original carb but the Edlebrock has some advantages for me.

1. I can get one fairly cheap compared to having the origianl rebuilt.

2. Since I am installing a 700R4 trans I have to install a TV cable. Bob Bendtsen told me in an email that a tab has to be welded to the card to connect the TV cable. His actual words were, "This tab gets welded to the carb. Carefully! It is extremely close to the intake. Must take care that there is still clearance after installing."

I know I can buy the connection tab he is referring to that will easily mount to the Edlebrock without welding. This way I save the original carb and not risk damaging it.

So, I can save $$$ and the carb, Later I can get the original carb rebuilt and maybe even buy a second intake. I am also keeping the original trans for the future if needed.

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I am so glad I saw this thread.
I did not know that a Edelbrock was an option.

Something to think about but will discuss later in my own blog.

Here are a couple new 51 to 54 project cars appearing in the Lexington Ky area.

This one is reasonably priced.
http://lexington.craigslist.org/cto/5545369477.html

This one does not have a clue
http://lexington.craigslist.org/cto/5541347004.html

I think this 39 110 has been posted here before.
http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/5483625217.html

I am working almost everyday.

Got the steering gear cleaned, rebuilt, painted and ready to bolt back in place. If it were not for the leaky seal I would have left it alone. $10 seal compared to a $250 rebuild kit. The original bearings appeared to be in good shape but they are all new now.

I pulled the mechanical fuel pump off the shelf and intended to rebuild it. Then I discovered that I can get a brand new one for half the cost of the rebuild kit. No brainer there.

I just received a roll of 5/16 tubing for the fuel line so I will get started on that soon. I am planning to do it in two pieces so I can put an electrical fuel pump midway along the frame.

I am almost finished with rebuilding the right rear quarter panel. Lots of welding so, getting it a little at a time. At least the fender skirt fits rights.

I am preparing to rebuild the 700R4 tranny that I got last fall. I won't bore you with this blasaphmy again until I go to bolt it to the engine.

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Wow! What shape is this one in?

I got the T/L compensator all hooked back up week before last. I hooked up the battery to test and everything ran perfectly the first time. The only thing I did different this time was to use a washer as a spacer on one side of both the solenoids mounting bolts. I said before that the new solenoids are larger. So when I connected the limit switch it sits higher under the compensator. I believe it may even have been touching the under side. I added the washer to lean the limit switch down and now it moves freely.

I got the control valve the steering cylinder back together and painted along with the tie rods. Got it all roughed in this weekend. You may even be able to see the bungee cords holding it up since I have not applied a wrench to it yet.

Now that those are done (or nearly so), I dug out the steering gear to start breaking it down.

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