Re: Manual brake conversion
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Thanks Howard! I hadn't even thought about the clearance issues involved with mounting a booster under the floor. Having something come up and take out the brakes definitely wouldn't be good. So, as of right now, it sounding more and more like just doing manual brakes might be the best choice. The biggest issue that I see right now is mounting the pedal its self. On these cars the manual pedal mounted right between that "V" section of the frame. Using the factory parts would be nice because everything would just bolt into place. The rod and master setup would be easy to add afterwards. I'll get under the car today and see exactly what I'm dealing with in regards to room. Thanks again! -Chris
Posted on: 2021/4/27 13:56
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Re: Manual brake conversion
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Thank you Ross, that clears up a lot. I saw some manual masters were mounted both ways but thought the under the floor layout was with manual trans vehicles. The plan is to mount a modern booster and dual circuit master under the floor like hotrodders do. In order to achieve this, I need the rod going towards the back of the car, not the front. So, for what I'm trying to do, I think the 55+ manual setup would be best. Does anyone know if the 55+ pedal setup would bolt onto a 54- frame? I suppose I could always modify the bottom of a 54- pedal to make this work as well. What do you guys think? -Chris Quote:
Thanks for the reply JWL. I have thought about going with only manual brakes, but aside from trying to get rid of the Treadle-Vac, I'm trying to upgrade to a dual circuit master cylinder. As of now, it sounds like the only way I'm going to achieve this, is by mounting it under the floor like the 55+ cars. If I'm going to have to go through all that just to mount the dual circuit, I'm thinking adding a booster won't be too much more work. With that being said, I thank you for your input because I haven't driven a Packard with manual brakes and was under the impression that it wouldn't be a pleasant experience. After your reply, if I can't make the booster work, I won't worry about it too much. Thanks again! -Chris
Posted on: 2021/4/27 12:37
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Re: Manual brake conversion
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Still doing some research on this.
It appears that the manual master cylinder was mounted in front of the firewall down low on Ultramatic cars, and mounted behind the firewall underneath the floor on cars with a manual transmission. Can anyone confirm this? Thank you, -Chris
Posted on: 2021/4/25 4:07
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Posted in wrong area - Please delete
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Posted in wrong area - Please delete
Posted on: 2021/4/25 1:22
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Re: Ultramatic not kicking down.
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Thanks Howard for the great info! I didn't know half of all that. I guess I should have spent some time reading up on the Ultramatic awhile ago to familiarize myself with it. I just assumed it worked like a traditional automatic. I'll have to look into adjusting the throttle linkage. Going off of how everything has been so far, I'm assuming it's probably out of adjustment. That's good to know about the manual shifting. I don't plan to ever shift it manually, but I appreciate knowing how to do it now if I needed to. Thanks again, I super appreciate it! -Chris
Posted on: 2021/4/13 11:43
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Ultramatic not kicking down.
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Hello all,
I finally drove the convertible for the first time yesterday! We've had her for about a year now so it was way overdue. It was such a great experience. Anywho, on the drive, the transmission didn't seem very happy. It would shift really early and kind of lug until a higher speed was achieved. Worse than that, she didn't seem to want to kick down to first after slowing down for a corner and reaccelerating outside of said corner. Again, lugging until a higher speed was achieved. When I'd come to a full stop, she'd start off in first every time. I tried looking through the factory repair manual to see if similar symptoms were described and I didn't see anything. Does this sound like some kind of an adjustment, or is something stuck or broken? The car is a 1953 300 Convertible Coupe btw. Thanks guys, -Chris EDIT: I should mention that I did perform a forum search before I made this thread. I couldn't find anything that pertained to this issue.
Posted on: 2021/4/9 10:59
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Re: 1953 327 belt sizes
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Ah, okay. That makes sense. I didn't even think to check cooling initially. Thanks again for the help. -Chris
Posted on: 2021/4/6 9:59
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Re: 1953 327 belt sizes
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Hey guys,
Thanks for the help. Funny enough, I checked the parts X-Reference before doing anything. For whatever reason, I missed the fan belt on there. Don't know how I could have because its listed a ton of times. The 51-54 generator belt isn't on there though. It could be that I didn't see that and moved on. Anywho, I ended up taking care of the belts this morning. I have an extra 327 laying around that was from a parts car. I checked those belts for markings and saw that it had a Gates 7410 for the generator belt, and a Gates 7455 for the PS pump belt. My local Napa ended up having both of these in stock. They are made by Gates but have Napa markings on them. The part numbers are as follows: Generator Belt: Napa - 25 7410 / Gates 7410 PS Belt: Napa - 25 7455 / Gates 7455 I threw these on the car and they fit perfectly. I'll go ahead and add them to the parts X-reference after I submit this reply. That search box is a great add Kev! I'm sure it'll be super helpful in the future. Thanks again fellas, -Chris
Posted on: 2021/4/2 18:22
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1953 327 belt sizes
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Hello all,
My 53 convertible coupe needs new belts. She's got a 327 with PS. Anyone know what size fan belt and PS pump is correct? Thank you, -Chris
Posted on: 2021/3/31 22:42
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