thank you. so in summary i understand, you can only switch the overdrive on or off when the car is in slow motion. i did this last time obviously with the car standing still and therefore my freewheel is still engaged but the overdrive is not. ( i did it during the assembly) i will try at about 10mph in the first gear to switch the overdrive on and off to switch off the freewheel. before i check the outer and inner cable of the knob if everything is ok. many greetings

thank you very much for your fast reply. one question: shifting the overdrive knob forward and backward is only possible while car is moving? BR Josef

Dear all,
if i drive in first, second or third gear at low speed, with overdrive not shifted by shift cable, it looks like the freewheel mode is engaged.
speed is aprox 10-20mph. no engine break feeling, only a very silent rotation sound from transmission.
I guess there is something wrong? Freewheel should not work in this situation. But it looks like it does. How to disengage freewheel mode? driving reverse is possible. is there a somehow a improvise to switch of freewheel?
thank you very much in advance for your thoughts,
BR Josef

no it doesn?t have this drain. there is only the vacuum connection pipe for radio antenna etc. BR Josef

dear all, thank you very much. i will make some trials with increased idle speed. i will let you know. thank you very much.

Dear all, we have used a overhaul kit for the Carter WDO. the engine is complete overhauled too. new piston, bearings etc..engine runs smooth, starts well. ideling, acceleration, all is fine. starter switch works well. But if the engine has got the right temperature the engine stops running during shifting. To explain this: during shifting, i have not my right foot on the accelerator pedal. the engine turns slower then idle speed and wents out. what could be the reason? if she is running with the automatic cold start flap closed, no problem. only if she is hot. the throttle shaft bushing situation is not like new, i guess you could imagine this. but could this be the reason? do you have got any ideas?

after check the shaft, the notch, the key i have found no damage. I degreased everything, assembled again and tighten the castle nut like described with the right torque.
i will check the nut after some miles. thank you again, BR Josef

thank you for all this datas, this manuals are what i have already found.
for me was not clear the old days describtion in chapter "11. install the axle shaft nut washer and nut tighten securely install and bend cotter pin"
this was not enough clear to me, because i never had done a job on this kind of break drum fixations before. nothing with key and notch. i felt not safe in my work. i was afraid to tighten to strong. now it was to loose. i will see tomorrow if this caused now maybe some damage on key, notch or whatever. many thanks to you all!
Josef

thank you all for the reply. i will try to fix it. It looks like i didn?t not make it proper. I did not tight the castle nut enough. It is still too loose. I hope i did not damage something by driven around my yard. for me it still not 100% clear how deep i must push the key inside the axle. Or if this does not matter something, because the key will find his position by itself.

Dear all, please could someboby explain me or pass me a link how to tighten the castle nut of my tapered rear axle?
I am skill with cars, but not with this axle design. It was no big job to loosen the castle nut. Pull of the drum was a different job. Now i do the assembling. I can not find the torque somewhere in my manual. the shaft was dry, no grease. is grease forbidden? when i tighten the castle nut by hand, without wrench, it gets tight very easy. the tighten progress by using a wrench is only a little. for my feeling it does not need high torque. But i am not sure. Is there somewhere a manual, just for this unique job? on youtube i can find a lot of stuff about pulling the drums, but not how reverse in propper manner. thank you very much in advance, Josef