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Board index » All Posts (carfreak6970)




Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
#51
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Just can't stay away

CarFreak
Quote:

HH56 wrote:
If your car has pushbutton shift there is a wire between the ballast resistor yellow wire going over to the PB relays to provide part of the PB power. That wire is not shown on the main diagram but is in the PB diagram -- yellow on early built cars, white on later ones. If a problem develops in the PB fingers or one of the relays which results in a direct short, that connecting wire or the yellow wire coming from the ign switch can burn. A very late issued service bulletin added a fuse over at the PB relays to protect the two wires but if that was never done a problem with the PB system could explain the burn.


Howard,

thank you for that!! that makes perfect sense. This car was originally a pushbutton automatic but was converted to the manual. That explains the extra yellow wire and maybe why it was taken off the road oh so many years ago.

Posted on: 2020/7/6 22:35
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
#52
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CarFreak
So I checked on C2C fabrication website and they dont have the rocker panel on there. I tried reaching out to them on here but did not get a response. So I will try through their website. I did find this though:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/270763383517

This week I got some stuff done. I was able to disassemble the dash completely that was in the car as well as the dash that will go back into the car. The pink dash was also an A/C dash (I was told it was from a 400) that I had to drill the holes for the power lock switches. So next I have to disassemble the column for paint and inspection. Would like to sand and paint all the interior stuff at once.

I attempted to clean the door cards with a steamer. I did get some stuff out, but I am not to sure I like the results. I will try again when they dry.

I also dissected the harness to replace the yellow ignition wire. It was burnt from the ignition switch to the crimp, from the crimp to the fuse box. So it got hot enough to burn the insulation off the entire wire! scary stuff. However according to the service manual there are only to be 3 wires in the ignition wire circuit crimp, but I have four... The fourth wire also goes into the engine bay, I am not to sure what it was used for but I kept it.

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Posted on: 2020/7/2 9:58
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
#53
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Just can't stay away

CarFreak
So this past weekend I was able to make it over to the parents place to get some car work done. The stuff I got done to the Patrician was a little small, but every little bit helps.

I got the passenger side door trim off (mostly anyway) and I started to dig deeper into the body. I sanded off the paint in areas that looked a little troublesome before and the only major issue I found was the passenger side rocker. I knew it was bad, I didnt know how bad it was... The rocker is not only perforated down the entire length, but also greatly dented... Needless to say it would be a lot quicker to just get a new rocker for it. I taked to Ross at speedwell garage and he turned me on to C2C fabrications for that. Ill have to see what all they offer but I am hopeful.

I also got the rear end up on jacks to start cleaning the underside and figure out what I am going to do there. The entire underside is undercoated and in most areas is still adhering very well. So I am going to POR the frame and leave the attached undercoating there and chip away at the stuff that is flaking off. The areas that are bare are just going to get spot painted.

Now that I am caught up on house work and hope to have the truck up and running soon I hope to get more time to work on the parts for the Patrician I have out here in Pittsburgh.

Posted on: 2020/6/24 13:46
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
#54
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CarFreak
Quote:

HH56 wrote:
No drawings. My silicone molds are directly cast from a damaged original that I glued back together with epoxy and filled any left over cracks and defects with Bondo. After several mold making sessions it is now somewhat the worse for wear again.


Well HH56... if you have some of the parts you made that are not in the best shape, and if your willing to send them over to me, I can reach out to this guy:

https://hv3dworks.com/

To see if I could get a 3D scan. With a 3D scan of these parts I could easily get them 3D printed at work out of the couple materials we have here, or see if he could do them in metal.

Posted on: 2020/5/7 7:06
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
#55
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CarFreak
Howard, do you have the drawings you made to make your molds? or maybe the 3D models? We have a 3D printer at work and I have the software to take 3D model and translate it into a readable file type for the machine to read.

It is an SLA printer that we have a couple materials I would need to find the specs on.

there is also a guy in Sewickley PA (down the street from me) that has a business of reproducing trim parts for the collector car market.

Posted on: 2020/5/6 15:49
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
#56
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CarFreak
thank you for the pointing out that rear mounting bracket. unfortunately I did not take a picture or take notice to the area where the dash once was for that bracket or those studs.

and no need to worry, the actual vents have been removed from the dash before work commenced. Well they fell out actually. The hinge has been broken on them for some time. But they still slide up and down in the openings and stay up, so at least they are functional. They are put off to the side but I guess Ill pack them up in a box and place them in a safe area, thank you for bringing that to my attention.

Posted on: 2020/5/6 12:56
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
#57
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CarFreak
Quote:

Leeedy wrote:

From appearance of the photo included, it looks like the Bakelite factory air vents are still in place on the top of the instrument panel???? Eeeeek! I would very, very strongly recommend carefully removing these and storing them in a safe place-preferably bubble-wrapped in a box until your dash is back in place.

These vents are extremely brittle and will crack, chip, even shatter. And they are very, very tough to find. Very much so. I would have recommended they should have been the very first items removed from the dash if you were going to do a full pull-down. Remove them and store. You'll be glad you did-even if you have spares.

And if you have a whole extra factory A/C dash why not just use the bezels and gold screen from it?


The opening where the radio face comes through is cut wider and taller. The bezel and gold screen will cover up the cut area of this enlargement. However the mounting tabs would not be able to be bent in a manner where they would fasten to the frame, but only to the gold trim. I would have been okay with making that work, but...:

the holes where the radio knobs come through the dash frame have been enlarged. Enlarged to the point there is no way to ensure the radio will sit flush like the factory intended it to be. Which means the bezels would not sit flush against the gold trim once the radio is installed due to the radio not sitting flush against the back side of the dash frame. Furthermore, even if I was able to initially get the radio to sit flush with the back of the dash frame, there would be no way to guarantee that the radio wouldn't become dislodged over time. Yea I could weld in pieces to correct the issue, yea I could make washers to fit over the hex part of the radio knob areas, but why go through all that work and time when I have a perfectly good A/C dash that has to come completely apart anyway for the gold trim? What ever dash board frame I was going to use needed to be stripped down for paint anyway.

Posted on: 2020/5/6 10:51
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
#58
Just can't stay away
Just can't stay away

CarFreak
I got a little more time and got the harness removed!! Got the heater controls removed as well.

However the dash frame has been cut for the radio that was installed... The wonderbar radio would bolt up, but it wouldnt be as secure due to the fact the knob holes were also enlarged. Thankfully one of the other dash frames was out of another A/C car so it is already cut for the A/C switch. Ill strip that dash frame down drill holes for the door lock switches and the overdrive switches so I can paint that and put all of the parts I removed from the Patrician dash on that.

That being said, I have to remove the chrome gauge bezels to get the gold trim removed. I take it to remove the bezels I have to carefully push the retaining tabs to remove them? then have to push the chrome/stainless trim clips through their holes to remove that trim and then the gold trim will just come out?

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Posted on: 2020/5/6 8:30
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
#59
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Just can't stay away

CarFreak
Quote:

HH56 wrote:

Instructions on mounting the switch are in the book I suggested you download. There should be two screws or at least two holes in the bottom of the defroster channel near the original L defroster duct flange. That duct flange is cut flush and eliminated with AC so there should be some kind of flat plate covering the remaining hole. The switch mounting screws could be part of that plate or helping secure the plate. The switch mounting slots slide over the screws and assy is tightened in place. Switch has a slight offset with the shaft angled toward the dash hole location. A gentle curve of the flex cable will provide the drive connection to the knob.


GOTCHA!!! okay I missed that. thank you for that. I read over that thing and I guess I just glanced over that.

Posted on: 2020/5/4 14:13
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
#60
Just can't stay away
Just can't stay away

CarFreak
thankfully the switch and its entirety were there.

I did find the A/C wiring diagram thankfully.

Where did that bracket for the A/C switch mount too? Mine was just hanging out on the backside of the dash. I didnt find any mention of how that switch mounts behind the dash.

Posted on: 2020/5/4 13:32
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