What does the kit contain to make this conversion? Are the points then some sort of common set readily available?

29 has a vacuum fuel pump (univac) mounted high on the firewall beside the exhaust manifold. I fabbed a sheetmetal piece to stop direct heat from going over to the univac. Providing your car's mechanical pump is working well, doping the gas may help. With todays gas, one has to be very careful with old diaphrams in mechanical pumps leaking. The gas will disolve them! I put a elec pump under the frame on my 32 Ford v8 to bump the gas up when it starts to vapor lock in heavy slow traffic, usually it only takes a brief period for it to overcome the vapor lock.

Hello Kevin, Been there with my 29. Added a baffle plate between the univac and exhaust manifold, wrapped the exhaust pipe and added one gal kerosene to 19 gal of gas.
Also carefully worked the distributor over. Points were pitted, sanded them till even, pulled the plate and oiled the advance. Set everything back to spec and now seems to pull hills well. If someone has a solution for the point thing,I would like to hear it, a way to go to a single set of points.

Thanks to all for their comments. Have had the same problem with my 32 Ford with stock 34 85HP v8. I fixed it with a elec pump under the frame and only have to hit it when the dreaded VP surfaces. As stated earler, have wraped exhaust header, sediment bowl and gas line to carb. Am going to fab a metal baffle between the Univac and exhaust manifold and do the keros. thing on our next long run coming up in May. I can remember even with real gas having VP problems on a 49 Olds back in the late fifties. With what we have now, more drastic measures must be taken.

Took our 29 out for a local region AACA tour Sunday in cool to late day warm temps. Route was a mix of rural and urban roads. Did fine until I got behind one of those ten minute traffic lights and had to wait thru two changes. Started out and vapor locked going up next hill. Fortunately next stop was just over the hill and made it choke etc. Let her cool off under a shade tree with the hood up while we were there for about a hour and half and ran fine all the way home, about 38 miles. Have since aquired exhaust wrap and done the exhaust pipe and insulation tape for the gas line to carb. Spoke to an old friend who has a 27 twin six and he adds a gal of diesel to 19 gals of gas to stop his from VL. Going to do that also. Anyone else used diesel?

Hello Paul,
There are two adjustments that can be made to individual whells, first is to adjust the cable by loosening the lock nut and adjusting. If brakes are really worn then shoe alignment is necessary. There are two brake shoe supporting nuts on the backing plates that are backed off, the brake pedal is pushed hard several times to seat the brake shoes and kept pressed moderately while those nuts are tightened back up. I would highly recommed you obtain a repop copy of the owners manual and repair manual both of which have good detail on your brakes.

I take it the fluid went missing? You can buy the fluid from Mac's Antique Auto Parts, Lockport NY, $2.50 for a vial of it. You will have to make an adapter to connect on the air line to blow it out, use a hand pump, NOT high pressure AC air. The backer behind the fitting on the rear of your gauge may be made of very brittle pot metal.... I fixed mine on my 29 then lost the fluid about three weeks later. Have fixed several Ford gauges which are the same style.

Late 8N Ford Tractors had little caps like those that caused the valves to rotate.

Here is more on the film. It is a 7-45 sedan being run thru the "standard car report sheet" events that require a total of ten thousand miles in no more than ten days. Film did day this one was completed in less than ten days. Also, there were several events, dragging a dynamometer car, hill climbs and stops, rough track unpaved road and acceleration tests that were part of the ten thousand miles. Of course it is stated test car is one pulled from the line and not a special car. It and the tests truly appeared to be a standard thing. As for babbitt, I drove my 26 Model T from Knoxville to Richmond VA and back (on secondary roads) for the 100 year celebration and have not had to pull shims from the rods or crank yet after another national tour last summer. I am not ready to put the Packard out on the interstate but do believe good poured bearings with high grade oil are quite durable.

Have ran thru a DVD of factory films and found one chapter concerning track testing. Thought it was interesting a 7th series ran ten thousand miles in ten days (the standard test at that time) and completed it at an average of 68 MPH. That means there had to be higher speeds on the straightaway. The same DVD has good detailes on body construction and wood.