Hey all - wanted to revive this. I was going to resort to covering up the clutch hole with a rubber sheet. I ordered a new boot for the brake pedal to get that opening to seal and found that someone has enlarged the hole for the brake pedal. The larger opening makes it so the new boot will not stay retained in the cover plate when the brake pedal return to its neutral position. Ultramatic or otherwise, would love to track down a new pedal cover assembly for my 2302 ('50 Super Deluxe Eight).

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Quick follow-up. It's pretty crusty under here. I'm going to replace the dimmer switch and run new wires to and from. Are these thr correct terminals corresponding to the labels on the wiring diagram? Thanks again.

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Right on, guys! Figured it wouldn't be anything too crazy. This helps a ton. I'll start digging into it tomorrow. Thank you so much!

Hey gang. Took my 2302 out tonight. Was in the middle of another wonderful drive when, seemingly out of nowhere, my headlights and dash lights cut out, came back on, then back out. I had the high beams on, so I hit the dimmer switch and everything straightened back out without for the rest of the drive. I tried to get it to do it again when I got back to the neighborhood, but nothing - high beams just worked fine.

Obviously something is off and failing. In your view, is this more likely a dimmer switch or headlight switch issue? I would ASSUME it's the dimmer, but you know what they say about assuming. Thanks in advance!

Hello! I'm looking to switch out my brake pedal cover. My current cover has holes for a brake and a clutch. Obviously with just the brake to deal with, I don't need that second opening. I know I could just self tap a little piece over the hole, but I'd rather just install the correct pedal cover.

The parts book does seem to differentiate the cover assemblies in group 3.1125. The cover that I have is in the photos, and I'm guessing its part number is 573153. The cover assembly I'm looking for is 421272, which I would guess is only different from the perspective of not having an opening for a clutch.

So, does anyone out there have a parts car with this cover still in place? Held in with four self-tapping screws, and it slips off with the brake pedal removed.

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Max Merritt sells that gauge, too. The listing says it's for the 327 engines with hydraulic lifters, but it's also labeled as "J-4540." I bought mine from them, worked fine!

HPH - 100% right, it needs to come to come down. I'm just not in a place to be able to do that yet.

Meanwhile, stubbornness and some assurance that this won't harm the structural integrity of the frame, I expanded the neutral safety switch access hole to accomorate the full length of the control shaft lever. So, the deed is done, new seal will go in tonight and we'll put this back together. Thanks again, everyone.

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Yeahhh, I think you're right. Just makes it to this window in the frame to taunt you. Went back in the topic history, definitely far from the first one to hit this road block. Bummer. I really appreciate y'all jumping in, though.

I wonder still if the hole in the frame can be expanded, or if the later version (but still within the 23rd series) with the clamp-on the lever is compatible with with my transmission, that is, are lock screws for the control valve and selector detent in the exact same location.

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I got the shaft to move freely, but the outer lever hits the frame. With the lever removed, the shaft would definitely just slide right out. So my challenge the moment is - are the lever and shaft assemblies two different pieces (the parts book lists it as a single assembly), and if so, how are they fitted together?

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Thanks, HPH! Been following your replies on similar threads on this topic on here, too. So, the manual lists this seal under "Oil leaks. (Leaks that do not require the removal of the transmission to correct.)" There is indeed a little access hole in the frame that grants easy access to the neutral safety switch. The lever is right next to the switch, so I assume it'll also use that access hole. The manual just describes the removal as "The control valve cross shaft and lever may be removed by removing the lock bolt on the inner lever and slipping the shaft from the case." I unscrewed that first screw on the left last night, but the shaft didn't move (all still seemed clamped together). Might just need some gentle persuasion?

Sounds good on the throttle valve. Just looked sort of goofy to me, like the lever is wedged between the throttle valve plunger and the stop. There don't appear to be any pictures of this in the manual, just thought it looked odd.

Cleaning for me on these cast parts is brake clean, flathead screw driver to scrape of the really heavy stuff, wire brush and mix of different brass wire wheels on a corded drill (occasionally switch to a Dremel for tight spaces). I use 0000 steel wool on smooth/finished surfaces. This one turned pretty well! I'm going to see if I can replace the breather with something modern. Screw appears to be 7/16-20, and not NPT (which is annoying, because all of the breathers on McMaster, for example, use an NPT thread).