A couple years ago I did this write up on my 115c's front end. Might be helpful.

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=218338&keywords=tsherry

I just did my '40 110 using pretty much the same process.

I have removed the remains of one on my '40 110. The bar was disconnected from both of the (odd) stabilizer links on the lower control arms; both of those are shot. I'm not sure if I can find replacements for those or go without....

I'd love a convertible sedan but that color. Terrible.

NICE!!!

Thanks, guys. My cores should be rebuildable; one has a leak but both actually have some resistance in them.

Any recommendations on companies? I see Apple Hydraulics ads occasionally...
One of the shocks is still working the other is bleeding to death with no resistance whatsoever.

That's for the spring clip removal, right?

Back in the '70's I used a bent nail and a pair of vice grips to remove the spring clips on my old '65 Falcon. Used the same technique on my '37 115c when I had to replace the door glass a couple years back. No sweat.

Finally had some more progress on the '40 today; installed the RF suspension finally, but the rubber bumpers are not yet installed.

Interesting process to install the suspension: Raised front frame with an engine hoist. Used longer than normal bolts on the lower, inner suspension support (under where the radiator would be) which supplied about 2" more freeplay in the spring support arm. Compressed the spring with two compressors near each other to compress the spring into a "C" shape. Placed jack under the spring support, installed spring in its' well. Installed torque arm back to the frame; then tightened the bolts on the spring support arm, then removed the spring compressors while supporting the lower arm with the jack. Still need to address the shocks...

Nice. I'll give that a shot.

Good evening, all--

The rebuild on my '40 110 suspension is getting closer to wrapping up, but I'm looking for advice on installing the suspension upper bumpers (below the shock arm).

The upper rubber molding (from Kanter) has a cone shaped flared end to lock into a hole in the frame support; the lower appears to have a slot for a sliding lock washer, not unlike the rear torque arm bushing bolt and washer.

Any advice for working that flared rubber into the frame without mangling it?

Thanks!