Thanks for the info., I'm going to be doing this in the spring.

Hello, Does anyone know if 1936 and 1937 Packard "120" front fenders are the same and can be used on either year? Thanks

Since I've owned this parts car it has never had a headliner in it so I never have seen the metal bows. I have a Packard "120" Body shop manual and has a diagram of the roof construction but no mention on the headliner metal bows. Anyhow, funny you should ask about the vent window gears as I have just replaced mine this summer on the car I'm restoring. John Ulrich reproduces these in silicon bronze which is stronger than than original die-cast gears. His phone # is 510-223-9587, located in El Sobrante, CA. There is also a left and a right side gear, definitely use the silicon bronze as the die-cast always strip out.

Hello, I have a 1937 "120" Sedan parts car without a headliner installed, so I took a few photos for you. If you need other close ups etc. just let me know.
Dave

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Thanks for the info.
Dave

I had my 1937 "120" engine rebuilt locally several years ago. I had a new ring gear installed on the flywheel and had it resurfaced, I've just realized that the shop never returned the bolting from the flywheel to the crankshaft and the shop is now out of business. I was able to purchase the correct 7/16 x 20 bolts from "Merritt" but since I didn't take this apart I was wondering if lock washers are needed on these bolts? My master parts list doesn't list any lock washers, the part number for the bolts is 300162. Just trying to avoid a future major problem. Thanks

Thanks for all the good feedback. I'm thinking now that it would be easier and safer to reinstall the engine, keep the front clip off and then remove the springs and complete the front end work. I also need to replace the bearings in the center link, I was thinking it would be easier with the engine out but sounds like it would be easiest to remove and reinstall the springs with the engine reinstalled. The engine is rebuilt and ready to go back in.

I'm planning on removing the coil springs on my 37 "120" and complete some front end work. What is the proper sequence and suggestions of removing chassis parts to safely complete the removal of the coil springs? Currently the complete nose is off the car and the engine is removed so it's basically just the frame and front end. The shop manuals are not that clear on this. Thanks

If that added wooden strip wasn't there I would have a slightly larger gap, doesn't seem as big as yours however with that added strip it does cover the gap. Does your bow have nail holes in it from that strip? Mine looks like this was original but who knows, could have had a new top installed in the 50'S and could have been added, but if it was added they did an excellent job because it was a perfect fit? I can agree with the other comments on the flexing and warping of the bow over time with a tight fitting top? Also sorry for the confusion the metal bow I'm referring to is the one forward of the rear wood bow as seen in the attached photo's, it looks to me like there is a specialty bolt needed to attach this bow?
Thanks
Dave

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I'm also on about the same phase of a restoration of a 37 "120" conv. coupe. I took a look at my original header bow today and set it on the windshield frame and only had a slight gap. My header bow also has a strip of wood about 1/4" to 3/8" of an inch attached to it as seen in the photo's. This is forward of the groove for the rubber seal.
My car was a partially disassembled basket case when I got it and a question I have for you is on the metal bow attachment bolts. I'm missing them and they look to me that they were 1/2-13 bolts threaded about a half inch below the hex head, then just a straight shaft thru the bow and into the mounting bracket? If this is correct I'm going to have them made unless anyone knows where I can obtain a couple?
Thanks
Dave

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