I was reading the shop manual and it described adjusting the anchor to raise the shoes up to the top of the drum by using a 0.010" feeler gauge through the access hole slot in the drums?! I have never had drum brakes with an adjustment at the anchor! What a great design. Out I go to check my car and sure enough a 15/16" wrench and a good yank and off comes the lock nut, a few taps and the anchor pin comes out of the backer plate and polished up on the wire wheel as smooth as it was 85 years ago. I see that the large diameter surface is an eccentric. Rotating it changes the vertical aspect of the shoes. This on a car that has been left in a barn since 1960! What great materials and design. Well done Packard! I painted the rubbing surfaces with anti-seize and reassembled.

I am looking for the following parts to complete my car puzzle!
Driver's Rear Bumper Arm, (1) 16 inch wheel rim, (1) headlight trim ring, (1) front fender/grill shell seam chrome strip, (1) Top Hold Down Wing Bolt.
Thanks very much.
Bob J.
bobshell@sympatico.ca

Whomever gets it I would be interested in the throttle cable and light switch knob assembly from the dash. Also the horns and the one brightwork nickel strip on the front fender/grill shell seam. These are all missing from mine.
Bob J.
bobshell@sympatico.ca

I had the same issue, at some point the previous owner had found a side window glass that was close to the broken(?) one and replaced it but the angle was wrong so they did a bunch of mods to get it to work including chipping away at the front edge so it would slide up & down in the vent window rear channel. In doing so they removed the rollers to tilt the bottom bracket and use its holes as an anchor. I made a couple of new ones using block nylon as my material. It is a low load roller so nylon is more than adequate and would likely have been used back then if it was available. It machines easily too, my low tech shop in the basement turned out the parts with a band saw and drill press. The ball bearings where gone too so I used 1/16 dia wire as an axle using the centres of the ball pockets and drilling completely thru the casing. Once installed I ground the wire flush with the outer wall. The wire is made as a U shape so the fastener traps the part on the outside. I need to reweld the frame yet and get the proper shape glass cut now.
Good luck!
Bob J.

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Thanks!

I am working on my '37 120 but I doubt it is unique to a large range of Packards. While disassembling the transmission and cleaning all the parts I noticed this oil cup well on the throwout bearing collar that has drill holes to oil the main shaft neck as well as a smaller hole thru to the bearing itself. I am supposing it takes engine oil. Please let me know if this is correct or if it uses another lube. Also, what kind of frequency?
As always, thanks very much for you valued input!
Bob J.

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I have a 37 and the large square tag is there with the 4 screws/holes, but that is different than a serial number that shows on the ownership. The Packard vehicle identification number indicates the model and where it was built, delivered and when, that is the large square plate. The serial number however is nowhere to be found on that plate. I was unable to locate one anywhere on my car and it has now been completely disassembled and stripped of all paint and rust.
Bob J.

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Am not sure but am thinking this is out of a 33, may fit other years. Cost is $100.00 plus shipping.
bobshell@sympatico.ca

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I think this is modelled on a 33 style grill shell. Has part of the grill detail in it. Cost is $200.00 plus shipping.
bobshell@sympatico.ca

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Looks like NOS. There are 4 panels, 2 tops and 2 sides. The sides are complete with locking rods. NO HINGE PINS. Just the 4 panels. Looks like the centre panels rivet to a beam or together, at any rate only a series of holes. Came with my '37 so is surplus to me. The price is $800.00 plus shipping.
bobshell@sympatico.ca

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  Inside right side hood.JPG (103.93 KB)