You should be able to get an inexpensive dial gauge and stand from an industrial supply house to check run out. You probably can get the gauge and stand for under forty dollars, and you will have them to use for many years to come on other projects. Maybe get them used from ebay for much less.
It's been years since I have checked axle run out, but as I remember if you use multiple shims don't put them all on the same side
If I am wrong please correct me.

Talked with my friend Roger (you remember growing up with packard). They just finished re restoring a 34 LeBaron boat tail speedster. He specifically remembers not having a problem getting it out or in. Actually when it came time to put it in they already had the transmission mounted. He said it just barely made it, with very little clearance. So he says you should not have to jack up the body.

And don't forget to check axle end play. Make sure you have approximately the same amount of shims on either side. Tap the axles to one side, then with a dial indicator see how many thousands end play there is and consult the manual.

Don't have their number handy, but you can look them up. I have been using A & P Bearing in Canoga Park, Ca. for over twenty years and just about always manage to come up with what ever bearing or seal I need. And usually a lot cheaper.
I believe they are on Canoga Ave. If you can prove you are some sort of garage the discount is bigger. Here is where your pest of a brother in law or neighbor comes in handy.
Many times just call with dimensions and they can help
Thanks.

you are going to have to fabricate a tool to remove the jets. I have a machine shop, so all I had to do was get a piece of steel and mill out a rectangular, rounded sides to fit around jets so that they can be unscrewed. When you get the kit you will be able to see what you will need. If no one else can help you, let me know and if I have the time perhaps I can do something for you. Also get some neetsfoot oil (I think that is how to spell it) for the leather on the plunger. You might even be able to salvage the old one. And be careful not to over tighten the fitting where the gas line comes into the carburetor. Very easy to break the bowl there. If the fitting does not want to come out, you just might leave it alone.

PI roster lists a 120 limo 1090 belonging to Dolan and Linda Lawrence of Michigan.

A couple of days ago Turner Classic Movies had the John Garfield movie, Body and Soul. Mid thirties roadster in several scenes in the first fifteen minutes. This movie is available on dvd. Recommended not only for the Packard, but it has great music, boxing, and Garfield.

one front bumper guard missing?

what you really want to know is cfm. How much air is used not the pressure. Bet you are going to want a bigger compressor, cfm, wise soon. Best Todd.
I use a fine silica sand, less expensive,does not remove alot of metal. A nice almost smooth finish, easy to buff up for plating. If wanted. If not just right for primer and then painting. Make sure you don't let your blasted parts sit out in the damp air for more than a few minutes before primering or plating. You will see rust starts almost immediately.
And don't let your sand get moist, it will clog the gun, and you will be tapping it against the cabinet about every thirty seconds.
Good luck, only one thing more tedious than sand blasting, and that is polishing for plating.

As owen said. Been using regular old cork gasket material for about 25 years now and never a problem. Why try to reinvent the wheel. Go to a good parts store and they will have several thicknesses. Buy all the paper gaskets also, and with a small ball pean hammer make all your own gaskets in about five minutes.