I think I'm digging myself into a deeper hole.

Hooked everything up as normal. Ground to frame, power to solenoids and the center terminal of the control box.

All I got was a couple clicks from the control box after about 6 seconds when I moved the lever toward the center of the frame. When I pulled it toward the outside it did nothing at all. No movement in the motor.

As a test, I left the battery hooked up as it was and got out my multi-meter. I tested both sides of the limit switch and both small terminals were the limit switch connects and I had 12 volts in all 4 locations. Is that right?

I thought the control box sent current there when the switch moved but what do I know.

I hooked up the power lead as normal and touched the ground to the small terminal of one solenoid and the motor turned. I then tried the other
and it turned the opposite direction.

Then I disconnected the pink and yellow leads from the control box and touched the ground to each one separately and got the same results (motor movement in both directions).

I stopped there for tonight as we have storms in the area and wanted to get back to the house before it got bad.

When I get out there tomorrow night and reconnect the control box do I run a ground to the center terminal of the control box?

Lastly I believe the limit switch may be having some issues. Since the solenoids are larger then the originals that causes the limit switch to set a little higher and closer to the bottom of the compensator. In fact I think it touches the compensator so its creating some friction and may not be returning to its
neutral position.

The fun continues.
The new solenoids arrived tonight.

First thing I did was test them per the earlier test that Howard recommended. They behaved just like the original solenoids Packard solenoids.

I hooked everything back as it is supposed to be but, no joy.

The control box made a couple clicking sounds after about 10 seconds but the motor never responded and the solenoids never energized.

Oddly (to me) I tested both sides of the limit switch and had 12 volts on both sides. I was not expecting to get anything as I was not holding the lever for the control box.

Last week I was only getting 1.5 at the limit switch and that was only when I moved the level on the control box.

Either I have done something differently or something has changed inside the control box. I tried both positive and negative ground.

The two new solenoids I ordered should be here tomorrow of Tuesday. Hopefully will wrap up the T/L soon.

I took the engine heads into a local shop recently. They hot tanked them for me and did some "light duty" rework. They said there probably were not that many miles on them since the last rebuild. They replaced or added one valve guide, all the oil seals on the valve stems and 8 hardened value seats. All the rest of the valves and springs are still in use. It's not at all what I was expecting but I can't beat the price for now.

Been examining the rocker arm assembly but have not done anything with them yet. Two of the push rod seats have sign of excessive wear. Oddly 14 of the push rods are identical. The last two have a different shape. How much you want to bet those two were on the worn rocker arms. All the other rocker arms look great but I am no expert on such things. I am at the very least playing to replace the two worn rocker arms.

I have gone back and read a couple of my last post and I guess I need to slow down. I've been making all kinds of simple grammatical errors. Its most embarrassing.

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Thanks for confirming that.
I though the rubber coated model that I purchased (24071) was the same as the 24046 but now we know 24077 is actually the correct rubber coated model. I purchased two of those light night from Ebay.

I drilled out the rivets on my 56 Control box and posted about that last month. I should be pics of it on page 35 or 36. I put if back together with nuts and bolts. so its easy to remove.

I will wait until the solenoids arrive and tested before I make any more purchases.

Going to start working on getting the steering back in place.

I was looking at the 24077 earlier but was not sure if it at the time.

I checked out that Ryder Fleet site for the 24046 and they are also back ordered.

I did find 1 of the 24046 on Ebay but I also found 2 of the 24077. They are just as hard to find as the other. I went on and bought the 2 plastic coded 24077 solenoids ($82 total w/shipping). That's half the price over Max's price.

While I wait for those to arrive. Why do you think the control box might not need replaced. Yes, it works in my test but only on positive ground. When I tried negative ground I got no ready at all on the meter.

For one, we are not 100% sure which model to get.

Second the Cole Hersee page says "Cole Hersee Company does not deal factory direct; rather thru an established network of distributors". All the online distributors that I found are on back order. Those that do have them want almost as mush as Max's does for the real thing.

I see no reason why the originals won't last for as much as they would be sued.

I am open to suggestions.

That solenoid we discussed (24046) is hard to come by. Most parts places are "back order". Stopped at my local NAPA today where they know me. They can't get it. They pulled out several others that they had in stock but none would do what I needed. They did not think the 24046 would do it either but can't be sure.

So, tonight I came home and dug out the original solenoids. They were showing rust and some corrosion but I scrapped off a good deal of the plastic that was left and media blasted them and they are starting to look good.

I ran the same test I did last night and they appears to work fine.

I was just trying to put as many new parts as possible in that portion of the T/L hopping it would be trouble free but I guess I will just stick with the old ones for now so I can move one.

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Howard
I'm sure glad you are on the Packard team not saaayyy....the AMC team.

Once again your patience in repeating all these detail over and over again, to every new person that logs on here is amazing.

I have the wrong solenoids. I did the first test you suggested by removing one from the car and grounding the casing. Then touching the hot battery terminal to the small terminal on the solenoid and it energized. It was a successful failure.

I went ahead and ran the other test, on the large terminals just to satisfy my own curiosity and nothing happened.

I found a conversation on here that you had with Henry back in January of 2009 on this same subject. You posted a suggestion that someone else recommended of using the Cole-Hersee #24046. I looked at the Specs for that model and the ones I have (#24071) and they are identical.

Looks like I was right last night in that I need a real 56 control box (wired for negative ground and 2 solenoid.
Any one have a suggestion on the correct cole-hersee model that replaces these. Otherwise I'll just fork out double the dollars and get them from Max's
Thanks

Went out tonight to test everything with the multi-meter.

I printed out last nights instructions to take with me.

First thing I did was test the control box. Since I already had it wired per Howard's instructions in post 370 it just made since.

I powered the control box with a positive ground and tested the yellow lead on the limit switch to ground and then moved the control box arm. I got a reading of 1.5. I then tested the pink lead to the limit switch and also got a 1.5. I guess the switch is good after all. Oddly I only got the 1.5 reading when I pushed the lever toward the center of the frame. When I pulled the level toward the outside of the frame I got no reading at all. I just assumed it would work both ways since it goes up and down (but what do I know) Finally when I changed it to negative ground I got no reading at all. Now I know its a 56 switch that was modified for a 55 w/ positive ground.

Then I tested the buss bar on the solenoids per last night instructions and got 12 amps. I got nothing at all at the short terminals or the longer terminals on top. I still do not know if the solenoids are right side up.

Worse case scenario I have to buy two solenoids $75 each as Max's and another 56 control box so I can use the negative ground. I think that's $180 at Max's. Yepee!