Well, the rebuild was pretty straightforward. After ordering the kit from Mike's Carburetor Parts in Rochester, WA, I spent about 45-60 minutes disassembling and photographing the process. Be sure to make notes too. I counted the turns on the idle air adjustment screws before removal, and noted the jet size numbers for each barrel- they were the same in each barrel on this Carter WD-O, so it didn't matter.

It's a good idea to get the kit first so you can examine the parts in the kit before you tear into the carb- that way you will know which parts you have to replace and to note the parts you have to be careful to save for re-use. Have a good look at the schematic diagram too.

I used the carb cleaner that comes in a gallon can with the basket included. You may have to do larger parts separately. Give them a good soak- the time will depend on the amount of gunk present. You may have to do some more than once. Get a used toothbrush ready, wear nitrile gloves and have compressed air available for the drying process. Soak, brush, and rinse with a strong spray of water. Blow all passages completely dry. Be careful not to lose any small parts down the drain when you rinse. If you re-soak any parts, be sure you get ALL of the water out or you will ruin your parts cleaner as water neutralizes the solution. Don't forget to dry the basket too before re-use.

After everything is clean, I lay out all of the parts on a clean white surface, and group them according to where they go. Good organization always helps.

I had to trim a couple of places on the gaskets to get them to fit. Nothing major. The only problem I encountered was with the reassembly of the throttle body to the main float casting- I simply neglected to examine the gasket first. It wouldn't go together tightly, and after looking again I noted the old gasket was two stapled together. The ones in the kit were separate, and once I put both gaskets together, it went together fine.

Make note of all assembly screw lengths so you will have the proper ones in the correct locations. I wire brushed the rust off the heads of mine for a cleaner appearance.

That's about all i can remember for now. I hope this helps!

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Artistic representation of my 22nd series.

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I am excited to report that the fuel pump works just fine! After installing the tank and adding a few gallons of 100 octane low lead aircraft fuel, I spun the engine with the fuel line removed from the carb and purged the lines of the remaining bad gas. But now, the carb refuses to function as it was intended, so off it comes. The main problem with these old carbs other than varnish is the dried out accelerator pump leather (see photo).

Ordered and received in three days a rebuild kit from Mike's Carburetor Parts in Rochester, WA (good town for carbs, except this is a Carter). Nice kit, albeit a little pricey but the service and quality made up for it.

Carb cleaned and reassembled. Back on car. Put about a teaspoon of gas directly in the throat, and the Packard fired right up just like it had been driven daily for the last 27 years! I'm starting to really appreciate the engineering and quality of these old Packard. It idles smooth and quiet, revs eagerly, and in general, just sounds great.

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Nice. Is that the one normally used on the 22nd series, or was there a factory version?

Most cars in the fifties were painted with a nitrocellulose lacquer, and did not contain lead as most house paints did. However, it would be prudent to always wear a respirator when spraying and a charcoal filtered dust mask when sanding. If you are working in your garage, I would seal off the door to the house in order to prevent the particulate from contaminating the indoor environment, especially if you want your wife to allow you back in the house again at some point.

Nevertheless, I would recommend that you alway err on the side of caution and consider any particulate to be potentially harmful, taking any and all precautions to avoid introducing it into the respiratory system of any living creature, especially children, the elderly, and pets. Carefully consider any and all with COPD and asthma.

If you put a canary in your garage, you will discover quickly the potentially harmful properties of certain particulate matter.

My name is Joey, I have asthma, and I approve this message.

I think the Narragansett looks pretty good. I called the first to request a quote, and left a message on the other to order a catalog. What I like about the Narragansett is their website, and the option to order separate sections of the harness, as I really only need the tail/turn/backup harness. It remains to be seen if the others offer that too, and what the prices are, but 20 some odd bucks isn't bad for what I need!

The latest progress: I drained and dropped tank, and removed the fuel gauge sending unit. There's about a half inch of rust and varnish in the bottom of the tank, and the sending unit is covered with about 1/16" of dry rust. The pickup tube is completely clogged.

I fashioned a plate out of sheet styrene plastic, and using the sending unit as a guide, made a new cork gasket. With the hole blocked off, I then proceeded to carefully rinse out the tank with some mineral spirits. I then flushed it with water, and added about a quart of muriatic acid (approx. 1:1), put in a chain, and wearing an apron, gloves and goggles, sloshed the tank back and forth in all directions to break the rust loose. Then I rinsed it by sticking the garden hose down the filler tube and let it run for about an hour. This process I repeated again, and eventually I could see bare metal on the bottom of the tank.

The pickup tube was still plugged up, and with a coat hanger, I couldn't get past the crook in the tube, so I took a small syringe and introduced some carb cleaner (the kind you soak your parts in) into the tube. After more wrangling with the coat hanger, and the addition of compressed air, the plug in the tube finally broke loose. I then rinsed out the tank one more time, dried it and put about a quart of Ospho in it, sloshed it all around and let it sit overnight.

The next day, I drained the remainder of the Ospho out, dried the tank, and prepared to reinstall it. The Ospho hardened any leftover rust, and neutralized it. I didn't feel the need to coat the inside of the tank since there were no leaks. after cleaning the sending unit in carb cleaner, I noticed the float had liquid in it so I drilled two small holes, one at each end so I could blow it out with compressed air much like you would blow out an egg. after rinsing it out with acetone, I introduced some water with a little bit of dishwashing liquid and blew into it again, revealing bubbles coming out all around the center where the wire hanger attached to it. I then dried it out, soldered it up, and tested it again with the soapy water before soldering up the two holes I drilled. I tested it with an ohm meter, and it appeared to work so I then reinstalled it in the tank with the cork gasket I made earlier.

I cut 24" long strips of 1/16" neoprene to replace the cardboard that was on the top and the narrower ones on the bottom where the straps were, glued them to the tank, and reinstalled it.

Next item: hooking it up and testing the fuel pump!

Will do. Much more to come!
Thanks for the encouragement.

I'm in the first stages of getting the 1948 Super Eight running so I can move it to my shop, hopefully without a tow. The first order of business was to buy a battery from NAPA, and see how it turns over. Fortunately, it spins very well! Hasn't been driven since 1985, but the owner oiled up the cylinders before putting it away in his barn. It fires when fuel is introduced directly into the carb, and sounds eager to run again.

The next step was to see why the fuel wasn't getting where it was supposed to go. The obvious reason was the tank, which had that dadgum rotten gas/varnish smell coming from it. I tried disconnecting the fuel line from the pump and blowing compressed air into it, to no avail. I then went back to the tank and introduced some compressed air into the filler tube, which resulted in a barf of rotten gas back all over my jeans. Boy, that smell is hard to forget, as it follows you everywhere the rest of the day!

Bonus! Found the build sheet between the filler and vent tubes. It just about disintegrated in my hands. See attached photo.

Next step: tank draining and removal.

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Thanks! That's what I'm going to do. I read somewhere about the silicone based fluid, and from what I understand, it is not compatible with today's brake fluids. Would the silicone fluid affected the rubber components in any way (assuming they are still useable)?