Your 12 volt electrical knowledge sure exceeds mine but I'll bet you already figured that out.

I had no idea there was an input and output specific side on these Solenoids.

I looked up the specs and they made no mention of that nor is it marked on the solenoid itself.

The Specs are below

Description Intermittent Duty Solenoid
Special applications Universal
Insulated/Grounded Insulated
NO/NC normally open
Circuitry SPST
Contacts copper
Housing phenolic
Voltage rating 12V
Maximum current: make 750A
Maximum current: break 100A
Intermittent time 10 sec. On - 20 min. Off

I will see what I can do tomorrow night.

Howard
I am not 100% sure what you mean by "the small terminal".
Do you mean the small one on each solenoid (where the limit switch connects)?

I tried that an nothing happened.

I've gone over all the wiring multiple time and its all wired exactly as described in the wiring diagram.

I also tried the testing diagram that you uploaded last week and still no results from the control box

I though you might like that Troy.

Howard
I discussed the solenoids in post 346 (page 35 I think).
It is just a rubber coated version of the model that was suggested in the parts x-ref page.

Finally a break in the cold.
I went out today and tested the T/L as previously suggested.

I hooked the battery up as shown in the graphic that Howard posted and nothing happened when I moved the control switch. I tried it with both positive and negative ground and no movement or a sound.

When I tested both terminal on the motor and both solinoids it worked fine but the control switch did nothing.

Its probably for the better. As Howard explained when Packard service centers installed a 56 switch on a 55 unit it was rewired to permit positive ground so if I get a normal 56 switch I can continue to plan on negative ground through out.

Also, when I replaced the solinoids I got the model that was already rubber coated as seen in other photos I have posted. That did not work out so well. A single solinoid is about 3/16 larger then the old one. Both mounted to plate are 3/8 larger and would not fit when mounted to the compensator unit.

I had to trim off some of the thick coating to mount it correctly. I will re-coat with the brush on stuff once I know everything is working.

Attach file:

---

  (95.02 KB)


  (109.04 KB)


  (100.54 KB)


  (112.73 KB)

I thought that Pic was larger then that.
Here is another one.

Attach file:

---

  (148.84 KB)

Can someone give me a possible year and model for this Packard?

I realize this pic does not have a lot of detail just showing the rear quarter panel but that side chrome may help some.

To be honest I am only good at identifying 55 & 56 models since that is where all my concentration has been since joining the Packard crowd.

This is a pic of my father-in-law. He also owned the 55 400 that I posted in my project blog back when I started it. He seems to have liked that black and white color scheme.

Attach file:

---

  (6.77 KB)

Thanks again Howard!

The portion of the drawing that shows the control box (Up, Down & Power) really makes the whole thing click for me. I have a much better understanding of how it works now.

I have everything mounted and I have sanded the paint off where the control box mounts to the chassis so it should have a good ground there.

I will try this soon.

I have been going through a few of the Service Counselors here on the site. Am looking at all the information about the T/L.

I found the brief article describing installation and testing of a 56 control box into a 55 Compensator (like mine).

Of course all the information assumes the car is in one piece while mine is not. I don't have a brake switch or on/off switch on the dash.

How do I test the whole unit (control box and all). Do I just hook up the battery to the red wire (starter led), ground it and then work the control box?

...or do I have to ground the left or right connections within the 56 control box as described in the Service Counselor.

The compensator and motor were rebuilt by Michiana Packard so I am not concerned about it working. ITs all the other electrical components that I need to test before I can say I am done with this.

Its the transverses bars with the ball joints on both ends. I am at work and do not have my Packard brain on.

So its safe to reconnect everything without any weight on the chassis. Just don't try to run the motor after its reconnected.

Before I reconnect the bars I would like to test everything to make sure it works as it should. Not just the motor but also the control box.

Thanks for the info.

The compensator control box that I have came with the car. I have no idea if it was ever reworked (I did get a new limit switch).

I guess I am opening up another can of worms as I am planning to change everything to negative ground. Once I get the T/L re-assembled we will find out if its positive or negative ground won't me.

While I have your attention.
What is the best way to reattached the short link arms that to the main T/L rods on each side?

When I disconnected everything last year I simply removed the motor and unwound the rods to disconnect. Is that the best way to reconnect?