The change in spark plug wire brackets was to provide more separation between the wires to prevent induction firing. This was particularly a problem with the two cylinders on a bank that fired one after the other. I believe they would have been the rear two cylinders on the right-hand bank on a Packard. On other V-8 engines this would have been the front two cylinders on the lift-hand bank. It depended upon the firing order. Dave is correct that to see original high tension spark plug wiring on an engine of this age is rare, especially since it is a 1956. This is especially rare when you consider that the carbon impregnated conductors failed regularly. Replacing spark plug wires was a regular part of a tune-up job in those days.

Is the need to have an electric fuel pump necessary? My two cars ('37 Six and '47 Custom) sit for weeks at a time, most times. A concern I have is for the dry engines to start on the first spin of the starter, before oil has been pressurized and circulated.

To start the '37 I run the starter, with the key off, for three or four short five second pulses. This is enough to indicate 15 or 20 lbs of oil pressure on the gauge. Then I turn on the key, depress the accelerator pedal once to set the automatic choke, and start the car.

The '47 is a little different because it has the starter switch on the carburetor and the key must be on to operate the switch. With the key on I run the starter like described for the '37, but do not completely lift or pump the accelerator pedal. Once I have gone through the starter pulsing, I pump the accelerator pedal two or three times, and the engine starts.

I do not have an electric fuel pump on either car and both run without any vapor lock or need for an electric fuel pump. I live in Austin, Texas and it does get hot down here. Both cars start with the first spin of the starter after they have been running or have been shut-off for a short time or even a day or two. To me starting a dry engine without getting oil circulating is asking for more rapid engine wear.

Something to consider...

I had the pleasure of meeting and talking with Bob only one time, at the 2008 Texas Packard Meet in Salado. He gave one of the technical presentations. He also got the award for a participant who drove the longest distance. His grandson accompanied him on the trip, and won one of the big door prizes. In our conversation he talked about a problem dealer in Montana that he had to deal with when he first started his career with Packard as a "Road Man". I mentioned to him that there was a '56 Packard at the show that still had that Montana dealer's emblem on the trunk. Quite a coincidence. I was looking for him at this year's meet but learned that he was ill and could not attend. I was impressed with his manner and knowledge. He had a real enthusiasm for Packards.

I have let all of my auto magazine subscriptions expire. Now, I will see which one I miss and buy at Barnes & Noble. I find the publications from the clubs I belong to (PAC, PI, CCCA, AACA) are far more interesting reading than the magazines I was getting. Plus, I am saving money. I will probably resubscribe to Auto Week and Old Cars Weekly, but that is about it.

Gerd, okay let us have another go at it without mentioning the "t" word. Does the paint color make any difference in heat dissipation? Is this what you wanted?

Thanks Owen and HH56. So the fact that radiators are painted black has nothing to do with heat transfer properties. The special thin/low pigment paints are just for appearance sake. I believe the new aluminum core and plastic tank radiators are no longer painted; although, the tanks are black in color. Aluminum transmission cases and cylinder heads are considered more efficient in their ability to transfer heat than their cast iron counterparts. So, it is the material not the finish that determines a component's ability to transfer heat. Enough of this, thanks again.

Here is a question about heat dissipation that has been rattling around in my head for some time.

Is there a benefit to painting the transmission oil pan black, or even the whole transmission, for better heat dissipation? I come to this notion because radiators and oil coolers seem to always be painted black.

Presenting the other side of the question: What about using aluminum or white paint?

Does the paint color make any difference in the heat dissipation of the transmission?

Are the Ultramatics any more sensitive to oil temperature than other automatic transmissions from those days?

Just curious.

I looked on the Blackhawk website and it no longer lists the cars displayed nor their labels which it had in the past. According to the label copy that I have, the museum calls the car a 1920 Packard Model 3-35 Twin Six Transformable Town Car. It carries a Fleetwood body that when ordered by Kent was higher and longer than any other Packard of its type. Fleetwood added drum headlights, steel bumpers encased in rolled rubber, and 35-inch disc wheels. The double-layered leather top lowered to transform the town car into a touring car. It is an awesome automobile and one of my favorites. I forgot to look and see if it was equipped with a radio.

Dave, thanks for the clarification. I was hopeful that complete new lifters were available. This would have been a huge benefit to current and future owners of Packards with these engines. However, new internals and refurbished bodies will keep the engines alive for many more years. Although, as you say not inexpensive.

Dave, I have seen new inside parts of the lifters offered for sale, but no complete lifter assemblies. It was on this that I made my cautioning statement.