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Board index » All Posts (tolandis)




Re: 41-42 Senior Engine Removal
Home away from home
Home away from home

todd landis
Having pulled and put in a 39 12 and 40 super many times. In my garage I have a beam running the length of the garage with a hoist attached to it. It is far easier to have another person help you lift off the fenders and radiator shell. Then as I remember it is a one man job to remove the radiator, and then attach the engine to the hoist bolted to the block, tilt up just a bit and out comes the engine very easily. I have removed or put in engines and the front body parts in as little as one day.

Thanks Todd.

Posted on: 2008/7/8 15:33
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Re: Mal's '41 120 Coupe
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todd landis
having a 40 super and 39 12 with original engines that I rebuilt, both with aut o lite distributors. I did not have to repaint the distributors just clean them up. They have what I would call a semi gloss black lacquer. When I restored these cars many years ago and lacquer was not outlawed, I took original parts and had the paint matched at the local auto body paint supply house. Remember, using the Dupont gloss black lacquer with just a bit of flatner. Hope this helps a bit. Todd.

Posted on: 2008/7/3 17:25
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Re: 1940 overdrive
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todd landis
Had a bit of time to play today. Put in the rebuilt solenoid. Thinking that it should work perfectly. And put on a new cap on the governor, again thinking that it should work just fine. This cap has adjustable screws, which the original cap did not. I hope they are set properly. Then turned ignition on and did a recheck of everything. Checked the kickdown switch, in the rest position had continuity and when the accelerator depressed no continuity. Hope this was correct. But, now could not get the red light to come on when the right side of lockout switch was grounded, and could not get the relay to click. Then I pushed the top contact on the relay and the bottom contact sometimes would make momentary contact and sometimes hold in. Don't know which way is correct. And now the red light would come on. Took it for a test drive and it worked once. Then not again. I think that the rebuilt solenoid could possibly not be working. I opened up the origianl solenoid and it was full of oil, but cleaned the contacts and hooked it up to a battery as told before case to ground, and I think number 3 and 4 to test. The shaft did stay out when pulled, and the other number did motor boat. So I think that I am going to put the original solenoid back in, in a day or two, but this time have it energized, and check the blocking ring placement. Any further ideas would be appreciated. Thanks again.

Posted on: 2008/6/29 20:58
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Re: Dealership post
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todd landis
The only thing I might add. Is, that I reposted with a better copy of the dealership. You used the original copy I sent which is not nearly as nice as the second copy I sent. You might check in your other photo section and you will find a better image of the dealership. Or delete this entry and I will scan again. Todd.

Posted on: 2008/6/28 19:21
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Re: 1940 overdrive
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todd landis
Yes it does help. And you are more of an expert than me. Every other time I put it together it worked just fine, what a genius I must have been without knowing it. I will try to energize the solenoid. So to have the shaft push out I understand I need to ground the governor. Does the solenoid need to be grounded also? Perhaps to the chassis before attaching to overdrive? In other words run a long clip lead from the solenoid body in my hand to ground (+) on the chassis? Now then I can tell you that when I go to insert the ball into the pawl I will need to apply inward pressure to get the bolts started. Because, now without the shaft extended I already need to apply inward pressure on the solenoid to start the bolts. So there will need to be even more pressure applied to push the solenoid flange against the spacer and in turn the overdrive.
So lets see we push the ball to the pawl, to install, tilt as much as it wilt, pray that it will stay, the spacer is straighter to engage her, and the bolts aren't to short to engage.
Well now that, that is explained how about the governor, perhaps we should just runover.
Wasn't there something like this in a Danny Kay movie? The poison in the pestal, etc. Or was it Who's on First? I dunno!

Talk to you soon. Todd.

Posted on: 2008/6/25 1:05
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Re: 1940 overdrive
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todd landis
All good information. Thanks. Why I am looking for someone that has dealt a lot with the R-9 is that this solenoid has the longer stem, and a round ball on the end with no flats. And in the past have not had to energize it to get it to engaged. Perhaps just luck. And this is why I mentioned before that with the solenoid out I can stick my finger in and push the pawl in about half an inch and it would lock the drive shaft from turning in one direction. If this was correct or not. And when I would manually pull the pawl back out the drive shaft was free to move in either direction. If this is correct this I would think eliminate the overdrive itself as being the problem. If this is not correct then I might try, as in the manual for the r-10 a nd r-11 align the balking ring if there is one. By the way this is from a manual for a Studebaker Warner overdrive. Again, which may or may not apply to the Packard Warner r-9.

Posted on: 2008/6/23 23:38
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1940 overdrive
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todd landis
Somehow my topic got put into post war threads. Probably my fault.
I had another question about it. And perhaps everyone has helped as much as possible. If so thanks so much.

In looking at the post war overdrive manual, r-10 and r-11 it explains that there is a blocking ring that can get out of alignment. Is there a ring on the prewar r-9 overdrive.

Also I had asked if someone knew Jim Hollingsworth as he seems to be a 1940 expert.

Thanks Todd.

Posted on: 2008/6/23 19:26
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Re: 1940 overdrive
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todd landis
havn't had much time this past week. But, printed out a manual on r10 and r11 overdrives. It talks about the improper positioning of the blocker ring. Do the prewar r-9's have the blocker ring that might need to be aligned? I don't think it does bit I might be mistaken.
My neighbor gave me an article on a Jim Hollingsworth. He seems to be an expert on 1940 Packards, and might know exactly what to look for. Might anyone know how to get a hold of him?

Also I am looking for the rear seat arm rest radio head, or any parts of it. I have had the radio box since I got the car but never have been able to locate the head. So here it is posted for all of you to see if anyone has any or all of it.

as always thanks for your time.

Posted on: 2008/6/22 21:46
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Re: Dealership post
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todd landis
Done. Picture somewhat better. Again if you want me to add any history let me know. And I will also talk with my friend about his time spent at the dealership. Thanks Todd. Now, if I can just get my overdrive working.

Posted on: 2008/6/14 1:07
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Re: Dealership post
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todd landis
tell me where to go and how big, and how to do, and will get it done.

Posted on: 2008/6/13 10:42
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