I'm sure this has been addressed a million times, but when I do a search I don't really get an answer to my question. I recently purchased a 1949 Custom 8. It's completely stock with the exception of the addition of an electric fuel pump. I've asked another member of the Packard club why this is necessary and he said it just provided some redundancy to the system. However, when I test drove the car prior to buying it, at times it would run rough, particularly during acceleration, and the owner told me to switch on the electric pump, and sure enough, it would smooth out. I've since experienced this same problem many times and I sometimes have to leave the electric pump running continuously. Is this simply a vapor lock issue? It's been in the 90's and low 100's here lately. Why does this not occur with my '50 Ford under the same environmental conditions. The fuel pumps in both cars appear to be in the same temperature environments. Thanks.

I just acquired a '49 Custom and I've had trouble with the rear brakes. They were very tight when I got the car and I adjusted all four wheels and bled the brakes. They seemed ok, but then after driving it a bit, I could tell they were tight again. When I went to adjust them again I noticed that if I moved the star adjuster to bring the shoes in ( i.e. backing them off) I'd get to a point where they would tighten again. After several iterations of this I have a very limited travel on the adjusters, I can only go maybe 5 or 6 clicks either way. So the manual says if you can't get satisfactory adjustment by doing the simple adjustment, then you can turn the anchor bolts. I tried that and no matter which way I turn them, the brakes are still very tight. I just test drove it and they're still dragging, especially the right rear, when I got back I couldn't touch the hubcap because it was so hot.
I don't have a hub puller ( I ordered one) so I can't see what's going on inside the drum, does anybody have any ideas about what's going on? Thanks.

I just acquired a 1949 2252-9 Custom 8. The turn signals did not work so I checked the flasher installation and the fuse had blown (it was a 14 amp fuse and the wiring diagram says it's supposed to be 9 amps). Anyway, I put a 9 amp fuse and tried it and that blew too. So I figured the flasher was bad, it was a Tung Sol 538. Some posts on this forum suggested a Tung Sol P229D so I tried one of those with a 14 amp fuse and the right signal worked, both the indicator dash light blinked as did the outside light. However the left signal did not, and eventually the fuse blew again. I guess this means it's the switch? Geez, I hate to have to remove the steering wheel. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks.