BIgKev caught me. Here is a dual port master cylinder. Sorry guys!

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Brake-Master-Cylinder-New/_/R-NMAM1843_0498080952

this one is for a 65 Rambler American. AMC had a number of master cylinders that look like they could be used on earlier Packards to get a dual braking system. When I was a kid in high school, driving a 53 300, I had the master cylinder fail me one evening coming home from a date. It cost me about $15 for a new cylinder the next day, thanks to a working hand brake and no hills in west Texas. I don't want to repeat that thrill though!

I can't remember where I read the article on using a Rambler dual master cylinder, but the jest of the of it was that AMC started using dual cylinders back in the mid 50's, and the master cylinder is still available from NAPA. Here is a remanufactured one for a 57 Hudson, which was a similar sized car.http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Brake-Master-Cylinder-Remfd/_/R-NMBP3081_0358923981

The guy making the conversion made a steel "L" bracket, bolting the master cylinder thru the side holes. Another hole was drilled in front for the rod. Then the bracket was bolted to the frame of the Packard. He then ran new brake lines. I can't remember if he installed a proportioning valve or not. Hope this helps.

I tried doing a search here, but didn't have any luck. Maybe someone will remember where it was.

Did anyone note the Fluer d" Lee (sorry about the butchered French!) rear trunk ornament on the 40 110? That means that it is a very early model - Packard switched to the coat of arms rather quickly.

On my 51 200, I ordered one of the carpet kits off Ebay. The carpet fit nicely once I trimmed out about 2" along the spare tire well. Apparently the Patrician was a bit wider than the 200. But it fit fine once a little surgery and glue was applied.

Kev - I emailed you a large photo of my 51 trunk for your review.

Thanks for the advice guys! I looked at a rattle can of touch up paint that the NAPA guy did for me. The ingredients are:
Strong Black 17.7
Green Blue 16.9
Magenta 15.5
Strong White 0.7
BRGT Fin M 0.7
Med Large M 0.6

The addition of the metal flakes sure makes it look like Arctic Blue. Thanks for the hint!

That's what I use - just don't let your wife catch you!

I need help in figuring out which color blue I have on my 39 120. I couldn't get a larger photo of it to attach, but you can look in the Owner register to see it -
1292 - One Twenty 4 Door Touring Sedan
Model Year: 1939
Model Series: 17th
Owner: David Grubbs
Location: Billings MT

TCP has a color chip showing four different blues for 39. I thought mine was Packard Blue but it looks more like French Blue to me. Which means that the wheels should be red. I've attached the website for the color chip.

http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1939-Packard-pg01.jpg

Any suggestions would be appreciated. - I do want to repaint the car in it's original color. It's been either touched up or repainted once, but the older color is the same as the repaint.

Thanks

I also have a 51 200 with a 288. After I bought it, drove it for a while, and then decided I better check the pan. I put the car up on jack stands and removed all the zillion pan bolts. The ones by the transmission take some investigation to find, especially if the typical oil gunk is on it. Cheap cooking oil from Walmart is a pretty good solvent for the gunk - you don't get loopy using it, and it keeps your hands soft. And cheap and easy to wipe off with paper towels. The tie rod has to be loosened and/or removed, and the crank will probably have to be rotated some unless you have led a very good life. I'm betting that you will probably find at least a quart of crud in the oil pan - just be sure to soak the oil strainer in kerosene or gasoline (outside the garage) before you hook it back up. Check the pan flanges with a good straight edge to see if they are smooth. If not, tap the flanges using an anvil and a small ball peen hammer. It doesn't take much to straighten the flanges back out.

When you put the new pan gasket on, I like to use fairly tacky sealant on the pan only. Let the gasket dry a few minutes, then put the pan back on, taking care to not to move the gasket out of position. (note - this will happen, so just keep an eye out for the slips. By not putting gasket compound on the block, you should be able to reuse the gasket the next time you drop the pan. Packard used to recommend that the pan be cleaned out annually, but this a bit extreme with modern oils.

Then start reinstalling the bolts, alternating from one side to another and front to back. I usually use a 1/4 inch socket set with a 12" extension. The 1/4" is so that I don't put too much torque on the bolts, and the extension to just make it easy to clear the obstacles. I also like to use a magnetic holder in the socket, as the bolts are small and easy to drop. Check the bolts after driving for a hour or so for leaks. They will probably need a little bit of snugging up (maybe a quarter turn) but don't get carried away and squash the gasket or bend the pan flanges.

It's not a bad job, and it will help save on the engine wear. Also, I wouldn't worry about not having an oil filter unless you are planning on making this car a daily driver or plan on a lot of long trips. Just change the oil every year when you put the car away for the winter.

1939 120 engine for sale on Ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1939-Packard-120-Engine-Ready-to-Reassemble-/291660851092?hash=item43e8576794:g:blQAAOSwuYVWmUBC&vxp=mtr

If I still lived in Dallas, I would be bidding on this one.

Please, someone rescue that 40 120. It looks like a very nice car, except for the dent in the left rear fender! Don't let it get made into a rod!