Tim- thanks for your thoughts. Prarie Auto Porcelain in Minnesota apparently does an initial ceramic coat and then a final porcelain coat, so hopefully it will be a bit more durable. For now, I'm keeping the car as a show car, so hopefully the porcelain will last a while. I agree for driver cars, ceramic is much better, but the porcelain pops so cleanly when intact. I'll post some photos when complete.

Stephen

Many thanks to all who have responded. I'm relieved to hear that these stud holes weren't blind holes but are in contact with the water jacket.

I've never heard of Gasoila products. Looking at their website, they seem to have a sealant for just about every application. They make two gasoline/ethanol resistant types: the Soft Set Thread Paste with PTFE and the E-Seal Thread Sealant. Anyone used both of these- preference?

I suppose Permatex Ultra Black would work well too.

Thanks again!

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Thanks Ross- what sealant would be best- I assume a non-hardening sealant would be indicated.

Thanks

Thanks Wesley-- I guess my main question and concern is: Do the exhaust manifold studs normally communicate with the underlying water jackets? If not, I guess it's possible that someone previously drilled too deep and connected with a water jacket. Crack in the block? It's hard to imagine that a bad head gasket could cause this given the location of the stud holes.

Any thoughts?

Just realized I forgot to say that this is a 1931 840 engine- thanks!

Per a previous post, I am re-porcelainizing my intake and exhaust manifolds. Unfortunately, one of the exhaust manifold studs was corroded and broke about 1/2 inch above the flush surface. I used lots of penetrating oil and heat but when I tried to remove it, it broke again about 1/4 inch inside the drilled stud hole. Today, I decided I would have to drill it out, so I started with a very narrow 1/16 bit and to my surprise, it drilled very easily and before I know it I was through the stud, but when I pulled the bit out antifreeze came shooting out through the hole I had drilled through the broken stud! I had noticed that the freeze plugs were located on the same horizontal level as the studs, so I guess it makes sense that the water channels communicate completely with the drilled exhaust stud holes. I've drained the water to a level below the holes, and I suppose I will continue to drill out the broken stud or try an easy out. Does anyone have any experience or words of wisdom with this. I don't think I can do any harm continuing to drill out the broken stud, but I'd appreciate any feedback from anyone who has more knowledge.

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Nice videos!

I spoke with Tom with Prairie Auto Porcelain, and he and his son do all the work and have extensive experience. He said that they ceramic coat the manifolds first and then apply a porcelain coat. He texted me photos of some '31 Packard manifolds they had done- beautiful. I'm going to send it to him. I just have to decide whether to do both exhaust and intake- intake manifold pieces look good, not chipping, but focally dull in some areas. I'm afraid that if I only do the exhaust, it might make the intake look bad! Any thoughts?

Jason currently has my Owen Dyneto Generator for my 840. He came highly recommendeded, so I'm looking forward to have a working and beautiful generator!

Thanks to all for your replies- I really wish there was a ceramic coating product that had the beautiful shine of porcelain, but I'm not aware of one. I ceramic coated my Etype manifolds and sacrificed the porcelain look, but I think I'm going to stick with porcelain for the 840. So sounds like Prarie (Minnesota) and Porcelain Enamel (Missouri) are the two options.

I really appreciate everyone's input!