Don

I had a similar problem with making replacement headers for one of my Repco V8 Formula 1 race engines. Too many curves too close together for mandrel bending, and much tighter tolerances to make them fit the collectors when bolted up.

They used to make these headers by sand bending, but nobody I could find alive would take it on. The answer came from an old race car constructor. Build it in sections using mandrel bends then weld it all together (very carefully). Given the size of the piece you are trying to make, that might be a practical solution, but unlikely the mandrel bending jockeys will take it on by themselves.

Does anybody know how Packard originally made these pipes? Most likely with conventional 3-way pipe benders. Sand bending was far too laborious and costly even then - except for race cars - but could produce much more accurate shapes.

If you can find a fabricator who will take it on, 3-way bending is almost certainly the most cost-effective solution.

What I describe above might be a good fallback if all else fails, but you'd need to find a pretty good welder to get a quality result. And be prepared to empty your pockets!

Cheers

Brian

Quite a project, on a very interesting car. Was this a factory catalogued model with the taxi accessories?

Either way, well worth doing and great to see it underway.

Do you have the engine and front bodywork?

The chrome work looks fabulous.

Brian

Reporting a much more modest Packard run! The curtain is beginning to lift here on the coronavirus travel restrictions - and my patience is exhausted.

Noticed recently that the Clipper fuel gauge is registering zero - which I am sure is not correct - so headed off to the service station to test my theory that it's playing possum. Went via the supermarket. Put in about 15 gallons of fuel, and now it's registering full which may be correct. Won't know until I use some. Now there's an excuse for a longer trip.

Anyway, here's a short video of my run home, which was impeded by a crane doing construction work and blocking the road. You can't see it in the video. I'll leave the language to your imagination.

The other pic is one of my toys which has not been driven for two months, with the current restrictions. But I like driving the old Clipper better! Truly. The Clipper gets more positive attention out on the road. And I figure every time I take it out it brightens up a few other people's lives. Lot to be said for that.

Brian

PS Could not get the video to load. Will try again later!

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Thanks Leeedy

Yes, I think I remember the Autobyk from when I lived in UK many years ago. I studied at Edinburgh University and recall a few floating around there amongst the student population. Pretty much useless, because it was quite hilly. And often too cold there to start them! But I guess a step up from a bicycle. Don't ever recall seeing a Packard there.

Don't ever recall seeing Solexes there either - not done, old chap! Guess they would have had the same problems.

Do you have any Autobyks amongst your collection? That sounds like something pretty collectible now. One changed hands here not long ago for about $3k.

Cheers

Brian

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Yes, my 120 Coupe was the first of those combinations. It was repainted here in Australia, but looks pretty close and widely admired.

Knowing the variety of colour schemes used by taxi companies, I would guess anything was available from Packard as you suggest.

Where was your first taxi project from? It's an unusually tasteful colour scheme. Was that opening rear window an original fitting? Terrific idea. The whole car is spectacular.

Brian

Good luck with your latest project!

Something about the paint scheme on your earlier project caught my attention. It's the same colour combination as my (now departed) 1941 120 Club Coupe. See pic below.

Hmmm.

Brian

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Yes, it's a great looking car. Guess that's the 1930's equivalent of a California Custom, with chopped roofline etc.

The issue of style over function has not gone away. As anybody over about 6 feet tall who has tried to drive a modern Lamborghini or a Ferrari 599 will attest!

There's no doubt that a certain section of the population will be seduced by style alone, then get to live with the consequences!

Brian

You mentioned trouble getting your rear wheels/tires onto your car.

I have wire wheels on my 1956 Clipper with new (ish) tubed radial tires a bit oversize at 235x75x15. Had the exactly same problem as you getting them on until I discovered that jacking under the frame near the rear axle provides much better clearance and they slip right on fully inflated. If you have Torsion Level (presume not) need to remember to switch it off. Also, the rear wheel arch covers (if any) need to come off of course.

This could be very handy if you ever have to change a rear wheel out on the road.

I always carry a small trolley jack in a box in the trunk, along with the factory issue job (which strikes me as particularly unsafe, and is for show only).

Cheers

Brian

Hello Leeedy

Thanks for that. I'm pleased to hear you have been beavering away cataloguing your stuff. If you don't do it, who will?

What you describe about publishing is a sorry tale, but all too common. I have a very old friend (and former top level motorcycle racer) who has been gathering and editing all the material for a widely admired antique motorcycle magazine (Old Bike) for as long as I can remember. It's a huge task - more so when the publishers moved it from quarterly to two-monthly issues. Now that it's firmly established, they are complaining about the cost and looking for somebody else to take it on. Same old story. The same guy actually did publish a couple of excellent books on the history of specific motorcycle events, but I suspect a lot of the investment came from his own pocket.

I wonder whether you'd get the same reaction to your approaches today from the same publishers. Sadly, you probably would. Quality does not really sell in their eyes and they are inclined to underestimate the value of specialist publications. It's interesting to note that the Packard "bible" now changes hands for far more than its original selling price.

The one consolation is that there are people on this site (and no doubt elsewhere) who understand and appreciate what you have done.

Cheers

Brian

Bob

It may be better just to paint it with something like black epoxy paint (there are various brands which supposedly inhibit rust). Then make sure it's well and truly cured before you do anything else.

The reason for this is that if any of your panels are a bit porous after removing rust, volatile underseal products can find their way in behind your paint job causing it to bubble. It takes a while (ie some months) for this to happen, but if it does it means starting all over again.

Ask me how I know.

Cheers

Brian