I see these colors listed in the list on the website for 1935, I know custom colors were possible but if a person chose factory colors are the colors that don't say "120 Only" senior colors?

Is there an example of Colombian beige here somewhere?

1935 Pompeii Green Dupont GS180
1935 Bedford Tan .. (One Twenty Only) .. ..
1935 Gun Metal Light Pearlite A .. ..
1935 Packard Blue B .. ..
1935 Roosevelt Maroon C .. ..
1935 Shirvan Green D .. ..
1935 Swiss Green Metallic E .. ..
1935 Geneva Blue F .. ..
1935 Mayan Maroon G (One Twenty Only) .. ..
1935 Camden Green H (One Twenty Only) .. ..
1935 Pompey Green J (One Twenty Only) .. ..
1935 Roanoke Gray Light K .. ..
1935 Orleans Blue L (One Twenty Only) .. ..
1935 Columbian Beige M .. ..
1935 Bronson Beige P (One Twenty Only) .. ..
1935 Quebec Gray Q (One Twenty Only) .. ..
1935 Delmar Gray S (One Twenty Only) .. ..
1935 Dustproof Gray Medium Y

Thanks for the feedback, I'll contact KAntner and MAx and see if they have anything available...

Question for all the experts, the passenger side of my '35 is missing a motor mount I think, not sure becase its never been present as long as I've owned the car. 4261 shows what is left on the frame rail, and 4260 shows the mount area for the engine

I believe this was a vulcanized mount and I'm probably missing the part that attached to the motor, Steel rubber seems to offer revulcanizing but with 1/2 missing not sure what could be done.

Is there and illustration on a part source for this so it could be reproduced?

Attach file:

---

  (51.98 KB)


  (52.86 KB)

Thanks for your input I have some questions:

- The bulletin mention a change to the sliding gear, I would assume that is no longer available as a new part so what would be possible now?

- I can imagine after 80 years the bearings could be worn, would that result in the problem?

- The larger spring seemed a simple suggestion to implement, but on reflection is it similar to just holding the trans in gear and causing additional wear?

Thanks for the ideas, just trying to decide what my best option may be.

I have had my car repaired at a local shop it need pretty much a complete engine rebuild, which they have done and the car seems to run well. I'm having an issue with the shifter however, the transmission was removed when the engine was done so that may the reason. In any case when you lift your foot off the throttle and you'd like the engine braking to slow you down, the car tends to pop out of 3rd to neutral which is annoying. It a large car and keeping one hand on the shifter isn't really possible all the time, and having the engine braking can be critical, has anybody ever seen this issue, would some adjustment or set up process when the transmission is re installed possibly be the cause?

Thanks I can feel one on the left below the heater control valve hoses and the up underneath on the right side as you were not quite sure on, will start wrenching, and I will leave the sheet metal screws out of the back, engineers could helped out with a slot/tab arrangement, but that's the ways stuff goes I guess, thanks for the help!

Thanks for the response are the bolts you mentioning accessible in the engine bay?

I see a edge of a triangle shaped bracket on the left side of the box with a 1/2 inch cap screw that goes into the firewall is that one of them?

I not seeing other hardware, are the other screws under the box?

I'm trying to remove the heater core from my '56 Clipper, I need some help from someone who may have done this, I tried removing the screws around the top of the metal enclosure ont to realize there may be hardware on the backside by the firewall that is not going to be reachable. Looking closer there are 4 screws that attach the Heater Core Enclosure to the air plenum below it so I removed those, and then noted there is a L Bracket that secures the enclosure to the firewall on the right side so I removed that also. I've tried pulling up on the enclosure, does not seem to want to come out so questions:

- I'm hoping there is no hardware that would require dash disassembly is that needed?
- Having removed the hardware shown should this thing come off, have I missed something?

Attach file:

---

  (23.69 KB)


  (17.92 KB)


  (54.00 KB)

I appreciate the generous offer of help but the system has largely been overhauled with the exception of the treadle vac device I'm going to leave the car stock and have that repaired with gent in Florida, I hope I don't live to regret it. Thanks for the input.
Bill

I just got these guy at classic disk brakes to give me a picture of the master cylinder setup they use, its pretty interesting and I thought I get some reactions to it from you guys, they remove the existing hardware and the master cylinder mounts under the car with the brake pedal passing through the toe board does this seem like a reasonable way to go? I'm told it doesn't disturb the air vent, I suspect it wouldn't really show but the brake pedal would look different.

Attach file:

---

  (5.38 KB)