The demographic that likes the original, restored pre-war car is dying.

The hot rod demographic is dying too, just a little slower.

If you look at the prices of Model A's, T's and '30's Fords, those have undergone the same price collapse in the past ten years.

I've never had that be a problem on my '37 or my '40. (granted I've only done 4 wheels with it)

Great looking project.

I'll get some photos/dimensions over the weekend. They are an insert, they appear to fit into a slot from behind and lock into another slot below the hole for the screw. Rather different than other makes I'm familiar with.

The front end on this obviously took one helluva whack at some point its' history, complete with some frame repair.

About half of the clips that retain the trailing edge of the front fender to the main body at the cowl are MIA on my 110. Does any one have a source for replacement original style clips?

Not that the originals are 'great'; I was quite surprised to see that they used screws and spring clips rather than a retained clip with a bolt...

I can shoot the front of my '40 110; the front clip's off and engine's out...

Glad you asked this question; I had exactly the same question on my 110's filter!

Thanks for the great info, guys.

(The filter housing on my '40 looks eerily like the housing on my Ford 8N that uses the Napa 1010)

The rubber lines can also suck shut--they deteriorate from the inside out, and a half dozen times now I've had engines starve for fuel for no visible reason. Replace all of them just in case. It's not that difficult.

I have a 3 arm that I think I got from Harbor Freight; took about fifteen minutes from unboxing it to getting the (very very badly stuck) drums removed from my '40, which probably hadn't been apart since the 1960's. My '37 came apart with even less work; it was a 1980's restoration by the looks of it.

I'm currently in the middle of rebuilding the suspension on the '40 110 sedan.

Some differences in the disassembly process (and experience with the '37 a couple years ago) are making this tear down much easier.

First off, the front clip's off, and the engine's out. So vastly easier access to everything.

The rear torque arm bushing is not the 'baseball' sandwiched between a removable plate and the frame, but a more common shaft with two bushings; much easier to remove.

Disassembling the entire front end is quite easy with a jack under the lower control arm, putting some 'lift' on it to free up the upper shock mount.

My process for the RF (should've done the left this way too) was:

1) Vehicle on jackstands with tires under the frame, jackstands under the frame at the firewall. Cherry picker engine stand with a chain around the center of the front cross member. You will lift the front of the car with this later.
2) Remove the drum and backing plate, disconnect the outer tie rod.
2) Remove the nut from the upper shock, but leave the pin in place.
4) Remove the bolts retaining the lower, inner shaft and bushings.
5) remove the torque arm bolt/bushing (mine required cutting the nut off on the RH side, LH side came right off with encouragement from the impact wrench.
6)with pressure still on the jack (upward), drive / slide out the upper shock bolt.
7) lower the jack under the control arm to it's resting position, taking some off the tension off of the coil spring.
8) Raise the frame with the cherry picker, taking all of the tension off of the coil spring, slide the suspension assembly out from under the vehicle.
9) gently set the frame back down on the jackstands, checking alignment of them before you release it completely (the car will likely shift when you lift it.)
10) remove the parts to a location where you can wire-brush them with a drill before disassembly, painting, and reassembly. (at this point, the '40 suspension rebuild--king pins, etc. looks very similar to the '37 as described in the PDF).
11) Service/rebuild/replace the shocks.
12) Clean the frame and paint.
13) Reassemble.