Ok, a quart of ATF in with the oil, after pulling a quart of oil out with my evacuator, since I just changed it last month. So far, no changes but I've only done a few short drives and idling. I do think, however, that I have narrowed the bad lifter down to the #6 or #8 cylinder...which is directly obstructed by the heater box. In for a penny in for a pound. If the ATF trick doesn't work (hoping to put about 50-100 miles on then change it out) then lifters it is. Hope to report back by end of month.

Ok so I'm hoping to try to ATF thing to clear up a sticking lifter this weekend. If that doesn't work I'll start collecting the parts to replace the lifters.

Question: Is this something a noob, like me, can learn to do and SHOULD do or is this something I should cut a check for? I really would rather learn, but I don't want to go into this not knowing what I don't know and then really cock things up.

May be worth a shot, at least until the weather cools down enough to do more serious work.

Yeah, I was thinking an additive would be a long shot and it's probably better to just replace the lifters - I don't want to do just one and suddenly have others bite it. Plus I'm eager to learn how to do more of my own work, I enjoy it.

It's just one lifter on the passenger side. This has been an on and off issue since I got the car, diagnosed by my mechanic, it was resolved for a while after the Olds oil pump conversion. Then it came back after I relocated to Utah, but not immediately. Only around when Spring/Summer started to come in. I figured maybe changing out the oil and filter may help, and using a heavier oil may help- and it did- until just recently. So finally I've decided enough is enough.

Don't know if it has the camp spacer and thrust plate updates, I don't recall the oil pressure readings after the conversion but it was good...I bet I have it marked down from either Jack or my previous mechanic somewhere.

Just finally being driven nuts by one stinking lifter. Maybe it's just worth performing another oil change with an additive and then changing again.

Well...guess I should replace the lifters. The service manual outlines a very extensive process, but I was considering just removing the valve covers and getting at the lifters with a remover tool. Any reasons I shouldn't go this method?

Sorry currently using 20w50, winter temps usually hover just about freezing an I only occasionally drive it in winter. Mostly driving in spring and autumn or summer nights because it's so damned hot lol

Dumb question - should I be using a heavier weight oil in the summer, temperatures almost never below the 90s.

After I changed my oil this spring the ticking I was hearing went away, but as soon as the temperatures shot up it is always there now. I'm wondering if the heat is just causing the oil to thin out too much.

Regarding suspension bushings; if I wanted to apply Mr Heinmuller's kit of new/upgraded bushings is this something that would risk accidentally (or even purposefully) unloading the torsion bars? I'm trying to figure if this is something that I, as a relative noob, can accomplish on my own or if it is best left to a shop.

I purchased my replacement shocks for the rear off of Max Merrit Auto's site just last month and replaced them this month. They were a direct fit and the ride was definitely improved from the 40 year old shocks still on the car. Oh and the price was very reasonable as seems to be the trend for Max Merrit.