Hi JW, yes, there is a seam down the middle, but there isn't any hardware on the front of back joining the halves. I've taken all the paint off of mine in most areas with a wire wheel just to be sure someone didn't putty over the screws or something crazy.

Hi rrhorton, thanks for checking yours. That's 3-4 confirmed identical dampers on '28 sixes now without any hardware.

As stated earlier, I believe the way the 3 piece damper is held together is that the drive pulley sandwiches it between the inner hub's larger rear flange when bolted to the output shaft. In support of that theory, whoever rebuilt my motor placed two circular sheet metal shims between the pulley and the damper's front half to ensure the pulley, when bolted to the output shaft, was pressing hard against it.

I've left the assembly soaking in penetrating oil overnight and am going to try to separate the assembly one more time this evening with a sturdier puller. If that doesn't work, the motor is coming out this weekend.

Thanks to everyone for offering their observations and suggestions!

- Aaron

You'd think so, right? Nothing. No discernible hardware whatsoever. There hub has a larger flange on the rear, and I assume the way it's held together is that the drive pulley sandwiches it between that flange. If that were true, however, my puller should have worked. Hmmm...

Update: Based on feedback from others here and on different forums, I did decide to try separating the damper in place. I created a rudimentary puller by welding a 7/16 nut to a piece of 3/16 strap and clamped it to the front of the damper. The puller worked as planned, but to no avail. Either the sections of my damper are hopelessly oxidized together, or it doesn't dismantle the way I'd surmised. All I accomplished via this process was the destruction of two perfectly good c-clamps. Those are easily replaceable though, and the damper isn't, so no real harm done.

Of the two possible remaining options, raising the engine or removing the front cross member, I thought perhaps the cross member removal may in fact be easiest in terms of disruption to other systems and work involved. As a first step, I removed the driver's side horizontal sheet metal cowling that obscures the frame rail and to which the hood clamp is affixed. Unfortunately, I now see that the cross member is riveted to the longitudinal frame rails. The only remaining option seems to be raising / removing the engine.

Unfortunately, I don't believe there's adequate clearance from the firewall to accommodate simply raising the front of the engine, as it needs to come up at least 2 inches. Even removing all 12 bolts and jacking the entire motor seems problematic, as I think such an approach would be likely to damage the two sheet metal cowlings bolted to the oil pan on either side of engine, among other things (manifolds, linkages, etc.). Therefore, I think it's time I accept that I will likely need to completely disconnect and remove the motor outright. I suppose I'll get to it. Damn...

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Hi Dell, do you remember where you got the modern shaft seal and perhaps have a part number? I was planning to use felt, but would love to instead replace it with something more modern and proven to boot. Thanks!

Thanks for the ideas guys. As suggested, it appears to be an at least 3-piece unit, with two halves split down the center and a smaller center hub. With the two larger halves removed, the center hub does appear to have enough clearance to slide over the cross member. I considered dismantling it in place, but don't see any bolts or screws holding it together. I assumed it was pressed onto the hub, and that even if I got it apart using a puller (which I've been admonished not to use) or some such, I wouldn't be able to get it back together the same way.

Similar dampers I've seen from later model Packards have a row of flat-head screws around the perimeter on the front face or other hardware holding them together. I guess it's possible those screws have been obscured by putty and paint on mine. I'll have to hit it with a wire wheel and inspect it more closely this evening. Given the number of scenarios that could necessitate removal of this thing (timing chain inspection / replacement, accidentally pulling out the brass retainer when removing the generator and dropping the gear, oil leak mitigation, etc.), it would be nice to know it's possible without conducting a major procedure, so I'll be sure to post my findings for posterity.

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Here's a picture of what I'm dealing with. Thanks!

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Alright experts, I'm stumped. I need to replace the timing chain cover gasket, and can't get the harmonic balancer off of the output shaft. I've read the service manual procedure and searched the forums to no avail. I've removed the center nut from the output shaft and the belt drive pulley, but the harmonic balancer doesn't have room to slide off. When I pull it forward, it it hits the front frame cross brace before it's gone far enough to slide off of the output shaft.

Moreover, the service manual's procedure for removing the timing chain cover makes no mention of a vibration damper on the 526--only on the 443. I'm beginning to wonder if my car is supposed to have one, or if one was added when it was restored. If the latter, whoever did so likely installed it with the engine out of the car and may not have realized the impending consequences. I am really not looking forward to tearing apart the front suspension to remove the cross brace, or pulling the motor, so I hope there's something I'm missing...