This evening I added a bottle of radiator flush before driving my 20 min drive home, then drained the rusty coolant, and hooked a garden hose up to the heater outlet on the cyl head and flushed a bunch of rust out the drain hole by the starter. I hope that got it pretty clean, but I think there is still more rust to get out someday.
I have now clocked 550 miles in the caribbean, I hope there are many more in my future!

I pulled out the pulley flange with my puller, and it seemed to work. I put everything back together and checked the pulley alignment with a straight edge. I will go for a ride tomorrow and see if things are better. Next task will be a flush of the cooling System. It is still rusty.

Attach file:

---

  20230610_213421.jpg (171.09 KB)

Good point, but I only want to pull the Fan flange towards the radiator 1/8 of an inch. I should be able to do that without stressing the bearing or casting. I just have to keep the water pump from rotating so I can tighten the puller.

I was able to use this puller to take off the Fan flange from the water pump shaft. I should be able to use this to now adjust the flange on the pump on the car and get my pulleys aligned! Proof of concept is done, now to do it on the good pump on the car.

Attach file:

---

  20230601_223956.jpg (271.08 KB)

I measured a second water pump I have, and it is also 1 1/4 inch, so I am pretty sure this rebuilt pump from Kanter has the flange pressed on too far. Time to Remove the Rad, Fan and pully to see how I can fix this.

On another topic, anybody know what this Button retainer for the Convertible top is called, or where I can find one?

Attach file:

---

  20230530_221234.jpg (168.81 KB)

Ok, the fuel System is back together, and she is running and driving again. Driving with the top down is pretty awesome, bug I still have some work to do on this car. After putting in the new water pump, it looks like the pulleys are not lined up properly. The old water pump had inch an 1/4 as measured in the below pic. The new water pump has inch and 1/8. Does anybody know if there is a spec on this? I think the flange was pressed in too far when the pump was rebuilt.
Grrr, looks like I will somehow have to get the water pump pully 1/8 inch out further.
The attached pictures I took months ago, but thought maybe my old pump was not right.....either I pull the flange out a bit, or I rig up some kind of spacer.

Attach file:

---

  20230113_155853.jpg (188.73 KB)


  20230113_155833.jpg (232.26 KB)


  20230113_155612.jpg (261.48 KB)

Right on Kev.
I ran a ground wire with black cloth covered wire, and ran a new brown cloth covered wire to the sender. The tank went in without too much fuss, and when the 19mm hose arrives, I can put that on the tank vent. Then it is time to get some gas, check for leaks and see if the rest of my work this past 6 months has been correct.

Interesting, the 53 caribbean has additional hood props, looks like gas charged things. Interesting idea since you almost need two people to open the hoods on these cars.

The Mail Lady brought me a big package today! The tank was dipped, media blasted, sealed inside, primed and powder coated outside. It took a couple of months, but it looks awesome! I know way "not correct" but it will work, and looks pretty.
I installed a swingset in the yard for my daughters today (lots of digging) so I will not install this tonight.... hope to get this installed tomorrow!

Attach file:

---

  20230520_214734.jpg (221.82 KB)

I hate zippers! Especially the one on the rear window of my convertible top.
The handle was broken off of the zipper pull, so I took that off and got a "zlide on" Clip on zipper pull. That almost works but I can only zipper up one side of the window before the zipper does not close properly. Arrgh.
From what I measure, the zipper is 5/16 inch, or about 8,7 mm wide.
I can only find zipper pulls for metal zippers that are 8mm, which don't seem to fit.
I am not a tailor, that is for sure.