Quite shortly I will be removing the engine and transmission from my 1951 300. T bought a replacement transmission on e-bay, replaced the bands, seals and high range clutches and will install on the car when the engine is out. The engine smokes and I have to replace two of the manifold studs, so I figured it was better to pull the engine and trans. I have a two ton engine lift etc, I plan on removing the grille radiator, and passanger side front fender. Is there anything I should be wary of? or, can someone give me some pointers on what to do and what not to do. Thanks everyone in advance.

In the current issue of the Packard Cormorant, there is an article regarding the demise of the Packard Co. At the end of the article the author describes how he would start the car in low, get up to 25 miles per hour, let off the gas, and then shift into high. Is this a recommended practice, or will it cause damage to the clutches or other parts?
Thanks in advance

Thank you Ross for all your help. You've saved me a lot of time and consternation since I want to get this trans correct before I pull the existing with the engine.
Thanks again,
Casey Rog

I replaced the clutch friction discs in my 1953 ultramatic , but I did not replace the steels. I had no problem re-assembling the discs and steel in the piston. I did not require clamps to re-install the piston ring at the top of the piston. Does this mean that my steels are worn-out. I noticed that the only steel with a real wave in it was the one closest to the planetary assembly. I have the trans apart, but I don't want to proceed until I get the
expert opinion from the forum. I am taking pictures. If sucessful, I'll run a blog on how to remove the engine and trans safely and frugally. (and hopefully how to rebuild the trans).
Thanks in advance

Ross,
Once again you are right. I will replace all the seals. I've got the transmission on my cycle table so I can work at eye level.
Thank you

I picked-up a used 1953 ultramatic at a very reasonable price. I started taking it apart since I wanted to verify that the direct drive and high range clutches were in decent shape. Both the direct drive and high range clutches are in very nice shape, I also saw that the first band (I forgot if it is the reverse or low band, the one that's nearest to the torque converter) had a grooved or ribbed inner bearing surface. I read that in the past that the bearing surface on the original bands was cork. Was that surface also grooved (or ribbed) or was it flat? I'd like to know, since if the grooved surface is evidence that the transmission was rebuilt at one time, I won't take it apart any further. Also, instead of jacking up the car, I am planning on getting a engine hoist and lifting out the engine and transmission as a single unit. Is this a good idea, or bad idea?
Thanks, everyone in advance.

I currently own a 1951 300. The transmission will no go faster than 10 mph in High. I should be able to purchase an Ultramatic from a previously running 1953. Is the 1953 the same transmission as the 1951? Your help will be invaluable.

I got into reading this discussion late, but, for filling any little holes in the body I would suggest using lead. I did that on my '51 300 and am quite pleased with the results. It takes a bit of practice, but you get a repair that will not fall off the steel, is very hard after it cools, and will never rust. I buy lead from ACRO Sales in Menomonee Falls WI. IT is called 3070 acroloy bar solder. It comes in 1/4lb bars. You will also need the tinning compound available at the same source. Their phone #is 262/781-8940.
Last time I bought lead it was about 5.75/lb (a whole lot cheaper than Eastwood), and you can remelt the drips and small pieces left to make new bars. The wooden paddles are usually available on e-bay along with the vixen files etc.
Try it I know you will like it.

Thank you everyone for all your posts. I'll have to get all my materials together and work up the guts to take on the project. Or, I can just drive around in low.

I had the same problem with my wiper cable. The cable was broken about the middle of the cable, so if spliced, the aluminum nut used to make the splice would not interfere with the cable movement. I went to Ace hardware and bought
a cable repair kit. So far it works fine. Since then I have purchased replacement wiper assemblies when they become available on ebay at a reasonable cost