Good call on the Lutron lighting system. I used Lutron Vive Powpaks in my shop, which means I didn't have to do any wiring to switches. I can add as many remote switches as I want and all I have to do it push a button. And the switches mount inside either standard faceplates or you can buy wall-mounted faceplates. It made things so much easier for me.

-Kevin

Great to hear that it's running so well. And always fun to have the kids along. That's one of the things I enjoy most about driving my car is watching the kids enjoy it and make memories together.

Do you think it was a failure of the self-adhesive on the weatherstrip? I will need to do my trunk here shortly, and I'd like to avoid problems if possible.

-Kevin

I wish I could find the post that Ross made about lifting the body. He used some sort of beam (wood or metal, can't remember) between the two legs on each side of the lift. Essentially the beam was sized to fit under the outer edge of the body between the front wheel and rear wheel. One beam for each side. The front leg of the lift held the front of the beam and rear leg held the rear of the beam. He took the body bolts out, then just used the lift to raise the body up. Looked like a piece of cake.

-Kevin

Just get a 2-post lift. Ross had a post some time back of him removing entire bodies from cars using the 2-post, then pushing the frame, engine and drivetrain out as a single assembly. Easy and probably way less expensive than designing trusses that can support that kind of weight. You're going to want a lift anyways if you are doing work on the car. A 2-post is very high on my list of purchases.

-Kevin

I would also love to know how the replacement rubber is being used. Mine is missing, so buying from Steele/Max Merritt has been on my list.

-Kevin

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Good catch, I didn't even notice. Interesting that they used a '56 interior...it doesn't look like the original upholstery from another car. Looks like those are new seats.

Looks like a nicely kept car. Paint is good, chrome and trim are good, interior is really nice. No pictures of the engine bay or under the car. Sounds like the TL suspension isn't working. But overall a nice, solid car to work with.

Originally my car had the hard fuel line going directly to the tank, but it made it very hard to properly align the nut to thread into the tank without crossthreading it. The old fuel line was extremely stiff and would not flex at all.

I found it was much easier to cut off the original flare and nut, then use a short piece of flexible fuel line between the old hard fuel line and a new flare and nut. Much easier to line it up and thread it into the tank correctly. I ended up using fuel-rated thread sealant as well.

That one is in really nice shape. I would say $10-11K is pretty reasonable for something with that low of miles, original condition, running, and fairly well-kept. Chrome will likely polish up nicely, the paint seems pretty good and should also clean up well. Interior is not bad. Some definite fading and wear on the front seat, but the rear is good. Didn't see any pics of the headliner.

It'll probably still need most of the mechanicals gone through anyways, to be sure it's safe to drive. Brakes, master cylinder, wheel cylinders, rubber lines, carburetor, fuel pump, etc. Unless those have been dealt with recently. But I'd plan on doing those if there is no definitive proof.

Nice pair! Looks like the 300 may have had some modifications done to it? Doesn't look too bad being lowered a touch.

How are the cars mechanically and cosmetically? Are you going to restore both or is one a parts car?

-Kevin