G'day all, I had the same problem with my Fifth Series, until I removed the starter, set the timing pointer to the appropriate static timing BTDC. I then got a piece of coat hanger wire and bent it into a pointer across the front harmonic balancer or pulley. (most earlier Series had a pulley only), attached the other end of the wire (in a small loop), to a timing cover bolt so that it sat very much like a later timing pointer. I then white painted a stripe on the harmonic balance to co-incide with the flywheel mark. The pointer now saves me having to remove
the starter to time the engine and works very well with a power timing light. There should not be a backlash issue if you always rotate the engine in the normal running direction to the timing position. I normally use a 12V light with the two power leads connected to a separate battery source from the 6V car battery. The inductive pick-up lead still clamps to your No.1 lead. I can take some pics if you need them. Best regards, Peter Toet

G'day all, I agree with Randy not to undervalue the car however, you should be aware that some insurers offer more for the money than others. For example During the April 2007 National Packard Rally in Toowoomba (Queensland) no less than 5 Packards had to be trucked home, distances from 500 to 2,000 miles. Two of our major insurers have a policy which includes accomodation, hire car and return of your broken down car to your doorstep. The other three thought that they had that insurance but were advised that it was only after an accident, not a breakdown. This amounted to a few thousand dollars for the unfortunates who did not read the policy. I have changed my 7 policies for my Packards to one which provides the return AND YOU ALSO GET TO KEEP THE WRECK IF IT IS INVOLVED IN A TOTAL.
The cost to insure my 1935 Super Eight for $A40,000 was $A220.20. You guys may be getting ripped off as this includes recovery from 60 miles from home(including hire car and acccomodation). It also includes keeping the wreck if the car is totalled. This may have ramifications for you if you undervalue the car on a non-retention of wreck policy, if it gets totalled and they keep your wreck. Best Regards Peter Toet

G'day Boro and all, On really recalcitrant axle hubs you may be tempted to use some oxy-acetylene on the taper, whilst applying a reasonably high puller force. This expansion of the drum taper slightly ahead of the axle taper will achieve the desired result, but you must be very careful not to overheat the axle as it may change the temper of the axle and lead to a fracture in the future ( usually when doing over 60 mph, according to Murphy's law). If it is a "really stuck axle", talk to a few older auto-shop people to get an idea of the non-destructive techniques available. Best Regards, Peter Toet

G'day Sam and all, If you are new to Packards, it is a bit confusing sometimes. I have a 37 Super Eight which is definitely a 1937, but it was delivered on 24 November 1936. With some of the earlier Series in the pre-Thirties, Packard had lengthy production runs and one model could span a few years. My understanding is that from 1936 onwards, Packard released models annually. There were probably a few exceptions to this and far more knowledgeable people than me, around to explain it. Peter Toet

G'day Randy and Mal, With regard to Eric's thread you have to admit that when you are retired, you don't have any more time to do things, it all gets eaten up with administration, etc. Most of my friends in my age group are retired but complain about the lack ot time to do things.
I have a theory that when Australia went metric we lost 2 months and went to a ten month calendar.
I understand that our incoming government shall legislate for a 26 hour day AND THAT SHALL GIVE US ANOTHER TWO HOURS PER DAY to work on our cars, etc. I hope that it works out.
Best regards and keep up the good work Peter Toet

G'day Mal, Good to hear of your progress with the '41. I would suggest that it really isn't necessary to relocate the battery to the front engine bay. Once you sort out the charging system and the battery itself, then they are pretty well maintenance free. How are you managing your batteries for your occasional use vehicles? If your vehicle is not run every week then you need to consider a battery maintenance system, which need not cost a lot of money. If I were 150 miles closer I would drop over and help you. I have about 45 vehicles on maintained battery systems and I currently use battery "minders", which are NOT "trickle" chargers. I find that trickle chargers boil my motorbike batteries dry in about 2 months,whereas the battery minders take about 12 months to do the same. I have 7 Packards on Battery Minders and have no maintenance until 12 monthly battery level checks. I ran my 38 Six on an 8 volt system for 5 years and reverted back to 6V as it was a PIA with a non-temperature compensated voltage regulator.
Let me know when you would like a bit of a hand and I shall come up for the weekend. I could pick up a few dead Roos on the way and we could go through "white line recipies - my favourite cookbook" over a few beers/vinos. Best regards from Canberra - Peter Toet

Those axle protectors sound a good idea. I of course was NEVER, EVER someone who undid the axle nut a few threads and drove it normally for a week until a squeaking wheel advised that the drum was ready to co-operate. With all of the OH&S legislation nowadays, it is amazing that the population continued to rise in developed countries. Best regards Peter Toet

Kris, The Engine number should be at the upper LH corner of the block, stamped onto a machined surface. The 288 on the head is not a conclusive engine capacity indicator, as the 288 and 327 shared the same block, but a 288 head has a smaller volumetric capacity ( 109cc verses about 120cc) and was a cheap way to get higher compression. After the Second World War Packard advised that 282 engines (also pre-war sixes) would not be supplied and that 288 engines should be fitted as replacement for 282 engines. There are a number of tech instructions for the fitment which required some firewall and gearbox mount mods. There were kits supplied but most people made up their own.
I fitted a 1954, 327 and R6 overdrive usng these instructions as a basis, although I must add that the R6 overdrive did not "slip" into the frame X member easily. My point is that the '37 with the 288 should not be frowned upon, as it was a Packard "sanctioned" fitment. Best regards Peter Toet

G'day Big Kev and you are obviously sold on the Blue Point Puller. The Blue Point specimen certainly looks to be very heavy duty and judging by the LH head appears to have been used. The other one would be very handy for someone local to pick up. Both pullers should be used carefully, particlarly concerning striking the centre bolt with a large hammer or the back of an axe to "Jolt" the taper. Packards generally have a trunnion block in the centre of the diff which may shatter if such tactics are applied. For recalcitrant tapers, if time is not a factor I generally put a few hundred pounds of torque onto the puller and go in for a cup of coffee. You will quite often hear a loud bang while you are away and all will be revealed on your return. If it still refuses to budge a SMALL gas flame judiciuosly applied to the taper will often give enough expansion to release the taper, without affecting the temper of the axle. There are probably plenty of variations on hub removal and i am sure we would like to hear the favourite ways to use these and other AXLE pullers. Peter Toet

G'day Kev, I would be keeping the one on the left, I have an identical one which I carry and it fits all Packards. It has a swivel on the end to avoid spreading the end of the axle. It also has more flexibility in the arm articulation as well as having a fourth leg, being able to handle larger diameter drums such as the eight stud wheels on a Fifth Series to Ninth Series, The sturdy one appears to be made for a single model. Best regards Peter Toet