The tank comes painted inside and out. It is well made. Sometimes the sending unit can benefit from an additional path to ground. I would recommend that you at least attach a grounding wire to the holding ring and leave plenty of excess hanging out the rear of tank after you install it. If you need it, it's there. It's not fun dropping a tank over and over. Ask me how I know.

Kevin

Quote:

100% agree. The stripping discs are great and do not damage the metal.

I'm still vacuuming up sand from when I had the interior blasted a year and a half ago. What a mess.

I'm so glad these tanks are being reproduced. It's a fair price for a good reproduction, and it's nice to know that you will not have a rust problem in the fuel now.

-Kevin

Quote:

Thanks Howard. It's good to know that I'm checking it right, and good to know that the generator is working as expected. As long as my solder joint holds I should be in good shape. I popped the cover on the voltage regulator, and everything in there looks brand new. If the regulator was out of spec, I know nothing about them and would need to read up on them in the Motors manual. Eventually I'll have to teach myself to adjust it. But hopefully not for a while.

-Kevin

Quote:

That's with everything hooked up as normal in the vehicle, voltage regulator and everything. I'm going by what I read on another site about testing the output of 6 volt generators....have the car running above idle and test the voltage at the battery terminals. Is this the right way to do it?

-Kevin

Howard - I couldn't see much with the generator installed, except to confirm that the brushes were still seated.

Don - I polarized the generator when I bench-tested it, according to Ross's instructions.

I finally had a chance to remove the generator and inspect it. As I suspected, there was a wire that had come off, from the field pole to the magnets. This wire had previously snapped off while I was cleaning the layers of grime off the generator during the rebuild. I had tried to solder it back on, but obviously wasn't successful.

I cleaned it up again and did a better solder job. We'll see if it holds. It functioned fine during a test run today. When testing from the battery terminals at a little above idle, it's putting out ~7.3-7.5 volts. At idle it's about 6.5 volts.

-Kevin

Attach file:

---

  Separated field wire.jpg (70.19 KB)

Trunk looks great! That was time well spent. I need to do new weatherstripping on mine as well.

The replacement tanks seem to fit well. The neck on mine was a bit different than the original, so the opening for the filler neck sits a bit lower behind the door in the fender. Besides that, no problems.

They do have replacement sender units as well. They are about $100. I bought one but it doesn't seem to be working well. I wonder if the float has a hole in it? Ground checks out fine, and the gauge is brand new.

That muffler looks pretty rough. I assume you'll be doing a new exhaust system front to back? Classic Exhaust did mine and it was excellent. The shop that installed it needed to do a little extra work with the bends over the rear axle. But besides that it was great.

Glad to hear you got it all worked out. Was it the eccentric adjustment that was keeping the drums from fully seating?

When I did my brakes I tried to use the one-person brake bleeder, but in the end I found it much easier to just have someone else sit in the car and pump.

-Kevin