Try ESPO Springs n/ Things. I was looking into them when I was considering replacing my front springs. I believe they can make whatever springs you need, and I think they have the info for the 50's Packards.

https://www.springsnthings.com/coil-springs.htm

-Kevin

Glad Fred is back. I'm curious to hear how the rodent repellant things do. I may want to throw some in my car over the winter just in case. I hate mice.

-Kevin

Here's Ross' video:

It's what I used when I did my brakes. He made it easy to understand how to adjust the eccentric and correctly seat the shoes with the drums. If the eccentric is off to one side or the other the shoes will be rubbing hard against the drum. Follow his directions and you'll get it done.

With the tire on you should be able to spin the wheel with one hand and hear the shoes slightly kissing the drum as the wheel spins on it's own.

It seems I have an issue with my charging system now. While driving it last night to a local car club meeting the battery/generator light came on full and stayed on despite speed. So I flipped the car around and parked it in the garage because I didn't want to risk not being able to start it, or have no headlights in the dark.

I read through the Motors manual quickly last night, and have a few things I would like to test/try. My suspect the generator is the problem, since I had it out and disassembled it. However, the charging circuit was working fine for the last 30 miles or so of driving.

Any thoughts on where to start?

-Kevin

Thanks Howard for the link. That was helpful!

Got it started back up for the year on Saturday. Found out my battery charger was dead, so picked up a new one and topped the battery off. Finished hooking up the radiator and filled the system with coolant. Engine oil level still within range, and will be changed soon.

Jacked the front up and took a look underneath. It looks like the leak on the transmission is coming from the input shaft seal, as before, or maybe even out the breather at the top. I haven't pulled the carpet to check. I think all the fluid that was in the torque converter drained back into the rest of the trans when I pushed the car in neutral. Then it filled up enough to drain out the leaking input shaft seal. Once I got the car running and the torque converter refilled the leaking pretty much stopped.

I noticed a big wet spot on the driver's side brake line where the hard line meets the rubber. Somehow the nut had backed out several turns. Weird. I really tightened it well, and because I was now freaked out I checked the others. All good. Refilled the brake fluid reservoir from the leaked amount. I readjusted the brake drums on the front since they were no longer "wiffling", as Ross describes it. Everything else checked out fine.

Two tries with the ignition and she fired right up. A little rough at first but it smoothed right out. A pretty good amount of smoke for the first 10 minutes while I let it warm up. After that, nothing. 3 separate test drives totaling about 30 miles confirmed that everything was working as it should. Trans shifts normally, car seems to stay cooler so far, and with the new fresh air ducting the cab is much quieter, and I haven't smelled any engine fumes in the cab like I used to.

Kids enjoyed a nice ride, and I took my wife out for a leisurely ride after church today. I can't but smile every time I drive the Panama. So relaxing.

-Kevin

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Thanks Howard and Don. Yes, I did see those knobs and correctly assumed they were for retention of the ducts. They more or less work. I'm having a hard time getting the driver's side fully seated....not a lot of room to work there.

I'll go ahead and get some bolts to install in the center radiator support holes. I certainly don't want to leave it without sufficient support. I don't need another leak.

Might need to replace the battery. It's not taking a charge now. Could be my charger, but the battery has always been a little weak. So, I might pick up a new one tomorrow and give it a go to see what happens. I'm foolishly hoping that the leaking transmission will improve once the car runs again....like maybe the seals will expand again. Same with my dripping power steering. I really just need to pull the engine and trans this winter and reseal everything the right way.

-Kevin

Not much time to work on the Panama, but I did get the radiator reinstalled. I used some fiber-reinforced rubber washers I found for toilet tank installation. They are different from the ones that others have posted about here before, but I couldn't find anything like those. My radiator did not have the center bolts on either side, just the ones with the rubber washers. How important is it to have the center bolts? I can get some if needed, just not sure how much they help since I believe they are not mounted with rubber.

I also got new flexible duct hose from Dwight. The old ones were rock hard, ugly, and didn't stay in place, leading to lots of air leaks.

Dwight warned me that the cut wires were extremely sharp, and he's right. Rather than having to be overly cautious when installing the ducts, I took a minute or two and used a Dremel to quickly round them off so they were safe.

Installing the ducts was a struggle, mainly because of the awkward positioning of the air ducts. But I got them all on eventually. Hopefully they stay on while driving.

I have a comparison shot between old material vs new. I'm not sure if my old ducts are original to the car or not. But the fabric seems to be very similar. My old ones were very stretched out, whereas I have a lot more to spare with the new. Overall I'm very happy with the replacements and I hope to have a little less fumes entering the cabin.

Lastly, we are finally having some decent weather again without snow or rain. I'm hoping to get the car started up again this weekend. The puddle under the car from the transmission is growing in size even though I haven't moved the car at all in weeks. I haven't had time to get underneath and see where it is coming from. I also plan to change the engine oil and filter after getting it running for a while. Any thoughts on dumping some Seafoam or MMO into the crankcase before I change the oil?

-Kevin

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Good to hear that the LiquiMoly additive helped. I may have to give that a try if my engine is still noisy after valve adjustments.

Your interior looks like it's in decent shape. Should clean up nicely.

-Kevin

I think from the factory the wire (green I believe) followed the main wiring harness through the firewall and down the inside of the cabin. I'm pretty sure the routing is different for sedans vs. hardtops and convertibles. I think on sedans the wiring harness went up the A pillar and through the roof rail.

On my hardtop, the main harness runs along the floor on the driver's side. According to the schematics, the reverse wire should be included in that bundle. My car had reverse lights added sometime after it was new, and they ran the reverse wire under the body on the frame, which then was coated in sealer and unsalvagable. I ran a new green wire from front to back following the factory harness inside the cab.

-Kevin

1947 4 Door Clipper. Parts car, been sitting in a field for years. It's located about 10 minutes from me and I've driven by to see it from the road. Rough shape, windows broken and open. Maybe some salvagable parts. Cheap: $500.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/706058960578850/

1948 4 Door, not sure of the model. Parts car, not sure if there is much left that is usable. Cheap, $750.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/608456360450629/

1954 Packard Clipper coupe. Rough shape, maybe some useable parts. Cheap, $750.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/479191083862515/

1940 Coupe, not sure if 120 or 110. This one is located about 30 minutes from me. Only one picture, not much description. Missing front screens, unknown if running, no info on interior. $3000
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1032296574050050/