Just want to be clear on a couple points the car, I went and saw the car once all the drums were pulled and the following things were apparent
-Brake linings were cracked on the shoes, had not come apart yet but it was apparent they could do so I understand this is a normal form of inspection, so new shoes
-there was fluid behind the dust seals at every corner so all the wheel cylinders were replaced not rebuilt.
- the soft brake lines were cracked and looked questionable so those were replaced.
- one of the hard brake lines had been misrouted such that it was crushed so that was corrected.
- Shoes were arced to be sure they fit the drums properly.
-Drums were not turned I was mistaken on that point.
- Wheel bearings were checked, one replaced and repacked.

I feel pretty good about what was done I don't want to be driving around on old components that were on the edge so I'm pretty sure all that was ok.

The power brakes are listed as not functioning , pulls vacuum but internal diaphragm not functioning. So based on that I have a choice I guess. I'm in Minnesota and friends with Mike Dulinski which many of you may know, I was going to have him pull a core from his stock and send it to the gentlemen in Florida for a rebuild and then swap out the units so I could drive the car till that happened.

Having read the website and reviewed the fact that the rebuilt units are tricky to get correct and may not be rebuilt correctly in some cases, it seemed prudent to check other solutions. I don't normally like deviating from stock but where safety and reliability are concerned I rate those as more important that authenticity. The treadle vac rebuilt and installed is probably $500 the disk brakes are a $1000 plus the labor, but all of that is small potatoes compared to hospital bills and losing the car.

The car is to drive not show, I just don't want some under engineered solution and I'm not interested in the roll your own approach as that may or may not be adequate. When a company sells something it suggests they have spent some time testing it, although I'm sure some will sight exceptions to that as well, I just want the peace of mind that this car is not going to fail and crash.

If a treadle Vac rebuilt by a competent builder can be relied on that's the simplest solution and I would do that, just have to wonder if that's reasonable.

I appreciate the feedback, you guys have dealt with this as much as anyone a good choice seems a comprise which ever way you choose so just I'm trying to be as informed as I can be. Thanks

I just called these folks and the sales guy check the kit, seems it comes with a replacement pedal so apparently they have addressed this aspect of the change over.

Hey there V8 Pack Fans

I recently purchased a V8 Packard, a '56 Clipper Custom and so far and enjoying the car. Upon receipt I had it safety inspected at the folks I use these days (A Classic Car shop) and they inspected it prior to any driving. I was told the car needed a full brake job, shoes wheel cylinders, drums turned, brake lines/hoses inspected and replaced, was spendy but stopping isn't optional. They told me the treadle vac booster needed a redo but I passed on that initially as they said it would be a like a manual brake car.

Driving the car the brakes really seem inadequate and need more power which the treadle vac would like give, but it sounds like sticking with this is risky from a safety standpoint.

Reading the posts on here about this thing I realized its a problem and a number of you are engineering work-arounds. In doing a little research I found a company in Colorado that sells this kit for disks. I wasn't really planning to change the drums for disks but am willing to do that if it gets me a master cylinder update that is safe and effective, the kit is supposed to bolt in and perhaps require rerunning a brake line.

So the question I have is this a product that anyone here has had experience with good or bad? Is it effective or does it require more changes that these folks may not be spelling out? I'm going to see if I can get instructions so I have a better idea whats involved but if there is any experience here with this product would like to hear from you.

Thanks
Bill

http://www.classicdiscbrakes.com/1951-56-Packard-Front-Disc-Brake-Conversion-w-booster-master-parkardcomplete.htm

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I'm near there, could photo the car for you if you like?

I'm hoping someone here may know where to find the specs for the crankshafts for the straight 8 from around '28 to '34 I rebuilt my engine with a crank from a yard that is from a car earlier than mine (35)and the Babbitt in the bearings is failing so its going to have to be redone. We want to understand what was originally done and determine what the exact vintage of the crank is if possible. Is there a good reference for crankshaft specs for these motors?
Thanks
Bill

Hey Guys

Would like a bit of info from the experts, I have a '35 1200 and have run into problems with brakes. I have some scraping noises from the front drivers side wheel. The car threw a hub cap and subsequently became hard to steer, I think the brake had warn out on the one side.

I have read other advice on rear drums that suggested using a dog bone puller. I've released the emergency and the wheel, will rotate. Before I got carried away with banging on it I thought I would just check if I need the puller to get it off. Is there any surprises when the drum is removed? Spring loaded pieces flying around etc... Any suggestions appreciated.

Well deal is done, I'm going to have a look at it on 2/26, if your around Flackmaster or your pal Jim previously mentioned would be great to have some input on this thing from others who have a level of knowledge on these cars let me know if your up for this and I can send you PM or email with more detail. Thanks for the feedback.

Appreciate your comments, based on another one of these that was mentioned on here recently I seem to see decent ones around this price, this one started out at crazy numbers and now its it a little too high, but really doesn't need anything and driver is what I want it for.
I appreciate the offer of some experienced "eyes" and I'm going to try and work out the details tomorrow and set up a trip next weekend to go down and see it, if anyone has time and interest could always use the input.
Thanks, I'll update this if I get the deal done.

Well, appreciate the input, I'm thinking this is more of a project than I'm up for, here some pictures of the other candidate, seems very nice but then I'm finding others here get a bit more out of the photos that I do, so lets hear what you think of this one.

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Thanks for your comments I need to hear this stuff so as long as is constructive its good. I'm not planning to show the car so perfect running board mats are not a huge deal, the mechanical aspect is what I'm really concerned about.

- Recognized the grill is rough.
- Instrument panel needs work, its rough
- Some of the panel fits look a little off I guess not exactly sure what to expect how bad does it seem
- He covered the mats, not as original but a workman like substitute.
- Are you sure about the harness, it was supposedly changed.
- digital photography has some shortcomings the lines ar in the hood ornament, but it needs replateing
- attached close up of hood, does it still look misaligned?
- I guess I don't know why your saying the top is wrong?
- I don't see any signs of rust on the underside, do you in these attachments
- The dent in the radiator fins looks bad
- picture of dash wiring, seems a mess but how many dashes have you looked under, they usually look like this don't they?
- master cylinder and hoses brake cylinders have been replaced that should be OK.
- rear springs look arched in photos but car is on the lift.

Car definitely needs the clutch and the the gauges repaired


There is another similar car for sale that by all appearances is nearly perfect and supposedly needs very little but is substantially more expensive (~14K) so the question becomes is the more perfect car cheaper in the end??

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