Too more quick questions:

1. Can you get a socket in there, or are you best off using an open end or box end wrench?

2. What size of wrench or socket (if you recall - that would make it easier for me)?

Jim G

Just as a matter of broader interest, the Packard service manual, when advising on how to find a current drain that is draining the battery when the car is not being used, notes that one common cause is a defective brake light switch.

I guess this is because that switch is wired so that it is "hot" even with the ignition off, on most cars, for safety reasons.

So, when it starts to get erratic in its normal function, you might also develop a battery discharge problem.

Jim G

My mechanic buddy diagosed why the oil pressure light does not come on on my '52 Packard 200 with 288 engine, when the ignition is turned on. He said I need a new oil pressure sender, so I ordered one and it is in.

The service manual is silent on how to install it properly, and the torque specifications charts do not cover it either.

So, 3 questions:

1. What torque should it be torqued to? (I do have a torque wrench)

2. Are you supposed to use that white sealing tape on the thread? I ask because I assume this sender needs a ground connection (there appears to be only one wire to it), and wonder how it gets a good one if you use sealing tape.

3. If the engine is "off" (i.e. oil unpressurized),and cold, will you still get any oil leakage when you pull out the old switch?

Jim G

Ah, that helps me to see where to look better. . .

Thanks!

Jim G

HH56: Thank-you for pointing me in the right general direction.

Question: Once the nuts have been successfully found and removed by someone with very dextrous fingers, is it a mortal sin to simply not re-install them so that future access will require removing only the easy TOP screws? Or, will this lead to vibration and movement of the instrument panel?

I'm asking because if the nuts are at the bottom of studs that extend DOWN from the panel, then the studs withOUT nuts should still locate the panel's bottom edge, and the TOP screws might be sufficient to prevent vibration?

Jim G

I figure I must be doing some thing wrong, but even after reading the "Instruments" section in the 1951-1954 Packard manual, I cannot see how a normal human being can physically get at the wiring behind the instrument panel of my '52 Packard 200 Deluxe.

The TOP two screws that hold the instrument panel in place are of course obvious. I cannot for the life of me find the BOTTOM two, which are supposedly accessed from under or behind the dashboard, while trying to keep your head off the clutch and brake pedals, and trying to figure out how to actually get at least one and preferably two hands up into the artea under and behind the dash. And of course, while having the fluorescent (so it does not fry the 56 year old wiring)trouble light in theri as well so you can actually pretend to SEE something.

I would really like to be able to reach the clock fuse, since my clock was not working when I bought my Packard a month ago, and I'd feel stupid buying a new one if all that is needed is a new fuse.

I would also like to gain access to the old wire, whose color is indeterminate due to age, on which I can see 1/4 inch of BARE conductor, so I can at least tape it with electrical tape until I replace the fossilizing wire harness.

I am not tiny, but am also not huge, so I figure I must simply be missing something obvious about getting back there.

WHERE are those 2 alleged bottom screws or studs??

Are there more fun surprises awaiting me once I get THEM off?

Should I be disconnecting the battery positive temrinal like the manual says, or does that needlessly complicate the diagnostics when there is only ONE person available? (and it's such a pain getting in and out from under that dash area)


Jim G

Wow, have we accidentally started a "customization" initiative?

I had not given any thought to removing the FRONT bumper. Hmmmm.

Jim G

HH56: That is a very good suggestion, and pretty easy to do too. It could be under the body and behind the tank and simply be painted black, OR if I get the right idea, maybe some sort of "nerf bar" setup.

I can't believe how clean that rear end looks in the photoshop image above, after the big bumper is removed.

Jim G

I am literally using my '52 Packard 200 as my daily driver while my other daily driver, a '55 1st Edition (NOT 2nd Edition!) Chevy pickup gets its new engine and running gear, refreshed body work, and new paint.

I live in Texas where the daily highs have been 100 degrees or thereabouts each and every day for the past 4 weeks straight.

I need to add air conditioning.

Remember that a '52 Packard 200 is both 6 volt and positive ground, and the generator makes only 45 amps at 6 volts.

What's the best way to add AC, taking a long term view?

Convert from 6 volt positive ground to 12 volt negative as a prerequisite?

Install a period-correct underdash AC unit that also requires me to add a separate heater / defroster?

Install a modern AC unit that we "try" to hid mostly behind the dash (tight!)?

Install a modern unit but in the area under the rear parcel shelf, between back seat and trunk, like Packard did originally from the factory?

Are 6 volt AC compressor clutches even available anywhere?

Where do I get a pulley and bracket arrangement to drive the AC compressor?

How much should I realistically expect to spend, parts and labor, given that I lack ANY / ALL of the skills needed to install an AC system.

etc. etc.

Any wise counsel out there?

Jim G

Yes, I also really like that top middle one, and that is the one that I had had in mind when I posted this thread.

I think I am going to do it, along with the rear bumper removal!

Jim G