If you have a local craigslist list, I would suggest checking there for a good used toolbox.

Tom

Mal,

You sure make me feel lucky that my car was driven by the proverbial old lady on the tramac streets Hagerstown, MD. I've got a ton of old grease and oil, but not that apparently insidious Idaho mud/clay.

You are doing yeoman's work. Great job with the car and this blog.

Cheers,

Tom

Scott,

Thanks tons for the info. The points I have currently are OK, so I won't do the conversion immediately. I am definitely going to check out their kit. It sounds like it has worked quite well for you. I have heard rumors that some of the available conversion kits lead to rougher running, so I was steering away from them.

I also like the idea of setting things up for using a timing light. Peter Toet has a description in a thread of how he did it, and I will probably go with that approach, though I will look into the kit.

West,

I appreciate your help. I like the idea of using a larger battery cable, particularly given the distance between the battery and the starter. With the current cable voltage drop is significant.

I am definitely looking forward to getting my wiring house in order. Even if things don't improve in the running department, at least I will have eliminated with certainty one potential area for huge problems.

Cheers,

Tom

Scott, thanks for the idea. I will check that.

I saw the coil on ebay. It is a repro, and I haven't found anyone with any experience using one. Plus, it doesn't look quite like the original that West has in his car, so I am not sure if it will fit.

I also have an opportunity to buy an original, but non-functioning, coil that could be rebuilt (or just used as a switch until I feel the urge to get it rebuilt).

For now, I have ordered a new standard coil, condenser, and engine wire harness. I am cleaning up the distributor, filing points, etc. I am also going to look into my generator/cut-out and other electrical system bits. After all gets put back together, engine timed, etc. I will let folks know how things are working.


Cheers,

Tom

West,

Agree with the incorrectly, or poorly routed heater hoses, but with the coil behind the dash it wouldn't matter! Also, plug wires, distributor to coil wire, etc. are OLD, and will be replaced as soon as replacements reach me from Rhode Island Wire.

So, I wait until then before I do much more diagnosing and futzing!

Boy, sure is nice not being in MN right now!

Tom

Dear All,

In advertising for WTB North East coil, I got a message from West Peterson that made me check things a bit closer. It turns out that my 733 has the incorrect ignition coil. It should be under the dash with the key an integral component, but instead I have a key switch in the dash and a coil on my firewall in the engine compartment. I have attached a photo showing the coil on the firewall.

My first questions is there anything, besides lack of authenticity, with this set up? The coil is a Declo Remy 380 6V coil, probably from a 41 or so Chevy. If I am having some engine problems, and am thinking about trying a replacement coil, can I just get a DR 380, at least temporarily. Finding the correct/original coil/switch is going to be a pain.

The distributor is correct and original (North East 10868).

Thanks,

Tom

p.s. I still want the right North East coil, if anyone has one...

Attach file:

---

  (44.65 KB)

Happy Birthday from Central Texas!

Congrats on making it one more year!

Tom

John,

I second the thanks for the info.

Cheers,

Tom

In case folks don't visit AACA, here is an interesting post on a what appears to be a Packard 12:

http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=481600


Cheers,

Tom

Tom,

The window channels on my 30 733 Sedan are the same as yours. Mine are definitely original.

Tom