My original radiator is out of the car ('49 288 - non A.C) and available for pictures or measurements. What do you need?

After U make up your mind, go for it, and don't look back...
It'll either be good or not. Then you can post about that.

WhiteGloveCollection.com offers repop. Haven't seen anyone offering resto services for that, per se, but they may know. I guess you can add/duplicate the other marks which is commonly done for assembly marks in "modern" cars.

Depends a little on your state DMV and whether or not the car is titled/registered. For theft protection, some do not permit removal or tampering of the manufacturers data plates, even removal for restoration. Since they did not have modern VINs, pre '64, it's a state by state issue how they treat vintage. It's not a "biggie" and silly but need to understand your state laws if you go to sell or license.


ps; What's wrong with just leaving it as it is?
It's a contradiction to own a "vintage" vehicle and then want it to look new. If it's non-functional, then it's a necessity to put back on the road, but cosmetics is in the eye of the eyers.

It's a sorry situation. I looked into getting a metal saw several times and there just isn't a good option. So I've postponed this purchase.
If I had to buy one, like if my abrasive saw dies, I'd probably go/opt for a cold saw.
After dealing with all the junk tools over the last decades, sometimes I feel, they don't want us to have good tools anymore. I'd cruise the tool related auctions, and see if you can find a good old one but that's hit or miss for timing.

Some of the Baleigh stuff appears to be good, I looked at a shear brake but it was $$$ - weighed too much for me to install myself. I think it was made in Asia. Hemsaw is pricey for what they sell. You can buy 5 of those harbor freights for one.
If anyone else knows of a good option, speak up. I need a new bench grinder too.

VanDerBrink Auctions, Ron Hackenberger two day auction at two locations in Ohio. July 15 & 16.
About 10 - '49-'58.
Never seen this many Studebakers and eclectics in one spot.
www.vanderbrinkauctions.com

If you search, how to test fuel gauge system..., you'll find several sources for testing and how to determine which component is the problem and how to repair. If you don't find the cause, you'll be tracking down suggestion after suggestion.

DC voltage is not rocket science. It's been around for over two centuries.
I've routinely run 24 Vs off two 12 v batteries on my boats going on 30 years. So they same applies for 6V. You just have to match wiring to the charging system.
Separate grounds help, but that's a no brainer in fiberglass.
Looks like two red top 6V Optimas to me with a fabricated hold down. Takes a little knowledge and wiring outside the factory stuff.
Whatever happened to adapt, improvise, and overcome?

If you're not comfortable with pulling the carb, take it to whomever rebuilt it. It's probably just got a little or alot dirt in it, a float issue, etc.
You didn't say if the fuel system was cleaned, so I suspect some type of fouling coming from it that prevents adequate fuel when required for the rpm. Fuel pump could be failing, but probably OK and you'll know when it goes completely.
Pre-electronic electrical systems usually aren't as selective to not run in a speed range. You have good spark/no starting issues, and power returns after fuel has not been called for.
You can monitor the exhaust gas ratio to check for starving, but need equipment. So probably best to take to a mechanic/auto shop.

There's a tool for that. Pulls vacuum and removes the air. You trap air as the coolant enters in pockets in the block and they have to be released/filled. If you run it and monitor, you're running with hot spots as there's no coolant in those areas.
You can do the same with a radiator pressure leak tester. Just don't pressurize these old radiators more than a few psig.

Logical discussion doesn't extend from discussions of galling, humorous or otherwise, to using clothespins for vapor lock?

HH, that was a "carpe diem" moment, and they don't come around that often.
Fred FYI: Stainless threads won't generally gall in cast iron - dissimilar metals. This wasn't much of a subject in automotive until studded aluminum blocks came into prominence.
Galling is a serious subject, not just for stainless but a whole list of alloys and has more to due with the metallurgy than the speed of engagement. For more information, there are numerous technical reference materials on this subject. TV, Wikipedia, and the internet are not reference sources.