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Board index » All Posts (su8overdrive)




Another parts source: Tucson Packard
#81
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su8overdrive
Economies of scale do not apply to purveyors of old car parts. Some of the larger national vendors have gotten pricey beyond the constraints of rarity and inflation, so wish to add another long-established, but more reasonable Packard supplier, Tucson Packard, aka Chirco Automotive. Sandy Chirco is turning the show over to his capable, attentive son Mike.

Tucson Packard has not just a large selection of NOS mechanical and trim parts, but parts cars, witnessed by Mike mentioning they had a pair of '47 Super Clippers among their donors. They also restore various parts:

www.tucsonpackard.com
9101 E 22nd Street
Tucson, AZ 85710-7313
(520) 730-2246
Packardautoparts@gmail.com

Please tell them Mike, '47 Super Clipper, Walnut Creek, CA referred you.

Posted on: 2023/10/9 6:11
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Re: Brakes and Electrical Issues
#82
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su8overdrive
AR, after attending to the above, this is the ideal time to switch to DOT 5 silicone brake fluid to preclude future such problems.
The Search box on the upper right of this site's homepage will give more information.

Posted on: 2023/10/7 11:22
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Re: Packard Club vs. Packards International Club
#83
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su8overdrive
Sound like a broken record praising Howard's insight, and at the risk of embarrassing him with another well deserved commendation, the gentleman deserves it. Years ago, decades ago, I had friends in both clubs, and HH56 sums it succinctly, perfectly, including his observation of the AACA's over zealous monitoring leading to BigKev's terrific Packard Info,
there surely being no more upbeat, expansive, thorough, well mannered exchange, marque support group extant.

In fact, many of us have no need of clubs thanks to Packard Info's "one-stop shopping."

Posted on: 2023/9/29 13:33
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Re: Fuel Filter Ceramic Element Clogging
#84
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su8overdrive
Good tip. We found acetone, if you can still get it, will cut anything. However, lacquer thinner should do the trick and is more benign.
I now use a modern pleated paper element in my original glass bowl filter just before the carb.

Also have a filter at the NAPA E8011 solenoid fuel pump near the gas tank which i use only to prime the system after the car's sat more than a week, which it invariably has given our hellish traffic.

Jeff Adkins, Moose Motors, Penngrove near Petaluma in the North Bay (707) 792-9985, packardguy54@sbcglobal.net had/has NOS glass bowl filters w/ paper elements, as well as most mechanical bits 1935-56 Packards, drum brake parts for all cars Auburn through Zephyr. Tell him Mike, '47 Super Clipper, Walnut Creek sent you.

Posted on: 2023/9/28 15:17
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Re: '32 901 Sedan - Vapor Lock
#85
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su8overdrive
Owen_Dyneto answers and solves your non-problem. He has never suffered vapor lock in half a century of Packarding for the simple reason that inline 6s and 8s w/ all their original bits do not vapor lock.

Those with inline engines insisting they've had vapor lock have other issues and/or wrong diagnosis. In 47 years of driving Packards on both coasts and across the continent in all kinds of weather, have never had an instance of vapor lock.

The only vintage/old/collector/special interest/"Classic" cars i know of which have are Cadillac, Cord, Ford V-8s in which the placement of the carburetor is begging for this malady.

Lovely engine, yours. And downdraft was of course a smart upgrade.

Posted on: 2023/9/12 20:01
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1941-47 front stabilizer bar grommets
#86
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su8overdrive
Wound up with two sets. This is an exact match for ours of longer wearing urethane.
$15 postpaid (you of course do not need the pictured rod, just the four grommets).
Do not respond to this other than via Private Message. Thank you.

Attach file:



jpg  New front stabilizer grommets.jpg (89.88 KB)
1673_64f273aae2a37.jpg 810X1080 px

Posted on: 2023/9/1 18:28
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Re: Looking good
#87
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su8overdrive
BK's right. 0000 steel wool also good for cleaning glass, tho' i got some fine bronze wool at Ace which is nice because it doesn't leave metallic residue where it might cause harm.

Be gentle on original woodgrain, then Meguiar's No. 7 glaze. After that, any good paste wax but nothing that has "cleans" or "polishes" in the title. You want to preserve, not remove. This goes for the body paint, too. Slow and steady. You want to g e n t l y clean and save.

Use only 100% cotton terry cloth, old bath towels. Remove the labels because they're always of polyester and will scratch paint.

Never use Windex or any commercial glass cleaner. Doesn't matter whose label on it. It's hard on adjacent rubber, fabric, woodgraining. Use instead a mix of cheap white distilled vinegar and water, then polish glass w/ crumpled newspaper and a few drops of kerosene.

Polish brass and copper with vinegar or lemon juice. I like Simonize in the original yellow tin with red writing for brass, copper, chrome, woodgraining. That, or Meguiar's or Mother's good for paint.

Never use Armorall. A four-generation upholstery shop near me well versed in Packards voids their warranty if anyone uses it. It's like lip gloss for cars. Looks good temporarily but its greenhouse effect intensifies UV rays. Just keep rubber parts clean and out of the sun. Often old rubber, if not dried out, can be saturated with inexpensive glycerin available at any pharmacy. Some old Bentley and Jag blokes taught us to boil in water old removeable rubber items for 15 minutes, dry, then slather them with glycerin. If you must replace a rubber item, check Metro Moulded Parts in Minneapolis before Steele, since the former has a number of items for less, tho' Steele will have everything at a price.

Assuming you already attended to mechanics: Flushed cooling system, avoid antifreeze unless car ever exposed to two consecutive nights of hard freeze; 30 or below (or has air conditioning, which requires 15% even in LA or Phoenix in August).
Flush brake system with alcohol, blow out system with compressed air, use DOT 5 silicone brake fluid.
Lube every fitting with black molybdenum/graphite grease until you only see fresh coming out. Any major brand 10W/30 motor oil. If stick and OD, GL-1 oil at NAPA for transmission and overdrive, GL-5 in differential.

Don't forget to lube the speedometer cable, repack wheel bearings.

See 2015's award-winning "Carol" with the always superlative Cate Blanchett with your wife or squeeze, and she'll warm up to your new baby if she hasn't yet.

Posted on: 2023/8/28 22:07
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Re: How Carburetors Work
#88
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su8overdrive
Had also stumbled over this a year or two ago but good to see again in slow-motion action what we're often glib about. Like steam power and rockets, carburetors are simple in theory, but detailed in execution. Just look at any compound Doble steam car, a "modern" (late 1920s-on) steam locomotive, Thor, Atlas-Agena, Titan, Saturn rocket from the Cape, or Carter, Holley, Rochester four-barrel carb.

Thank you, sir.

Posted on: 2023/8/28 16:16
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Re: Terminology
#89
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su8overdrive
O'Dyneto well sums it. Marketing is half the car biz, hence Cord calling their 1936-37 convertible (victoria) a "Phaeton" for the romantic aspect, just as they launched yet another boat tail speedster (only 260 or so produced) in their 1935-36 Auburn 851-852 line, for late blooming Americans, since boat tails were passe in Europe and the Continent after the '20s.

Club sedan originally meant a close-coupled four-door sedan on the standard or shorter wheelbase. But Packard called their two-door Clippers this 1942-47, despite they being the less expensive model, priced below the four door "touring sedan."

The only roadsters built after the war were generally small sport cars from England and the Continent, side curtains only.

While we're at it, Carroll Shelby, who certainly knew what he was about, insisted the correct term is "sport car." But it's been the incorrect "sports car" for so long few notice, just as forte for one's strength or special talent is one syllable, as in fort, a military stronghold. Only used in music, as to designate a passage played loudly, is it two syllables.

Don't get us started on "classic" car.

Posted on: 2023/8/28 15:47
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Re: Stuck valve remedy?
#90
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su8overdrive
50Cal, i'm in the East Bay. The '40 120 I had long ago would often have a stuck valve after sitting a couple months between runs, esp. after the moist air during rainy season.
What worked was pulling the spark plugs, and trying to angle the squirt gun to get Marvel Mystery Oil over the valves. Then relaxed, fussed with car a few minutes, stuffed rags in the spark plug holes so as not to make a mess while cranking the engine a few times to work the Marvel and get most of it out of the cylinders.

Then put the plugs back in--remember, only wrist tight w/ our 10mm plugs and copper spark plug gaskets better-- started the car. Smoked for a few minutes, but far enough from the neighbors not to attract attention. 1940 Packards introduced austenitic valves to alleviate the problem.

As mentioned, a late aero/auto mechanic/machinist pilot friend who as a very young Pan Am wrench at the Alameda Naval Air Station during War II, said Pan Am's chief of maintenance swore by Marvel, ordered it by the 55-gallon drum.

Any trouble with those big Wright Cyclones meant a long, wet walk home.

Posted on: 2023/8/24 18:23
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