Yep, I've noticed the same about the vagueness of the Packard repair manual.

Be sure that your dome light circuit has a good ground. The switch could be getting power but if the flow of electricity can't return to the battery, then it won't work.

PS - the job that Apple did looks good. I've used them in the past and have a very good impression of the quality of their work. The only other shop I found that advised they were up to rebuild my shocks (Delco Lovejoy Duodraulic) was A1 Shock Absorber Company who wanted a little more than what Apple was charging. Being on the east coast, I just decided I'd stick with Apple.

It was an emotionally jarring experience stroking the check to Apple to cover the cost of 4 rebuilt shocks at $445 per shock. BUT, a necessary one as in the three years of Packard ownership I've only seen a pair of front shocks for a 30/31 come up for sale once on Ebay. I didn't want to merely clean up what I had, see them leak everywhere and possibly damage them to the point of rendering them useless.

Assuming your shocks are like mine, to get the link off, you'll have to remove a cotter pin off each end of the link. Then you'll have to unscrew a plug on each end to release the tension on each adjoining ball joint. I removed the ball joints on the shock side by using a Harbor Freight ball joint separator. Be sure to place a towel over the works as I launched one of my balls about 30 feet when it separated. I soaked my links in Purple Power for a day, then disassembled, removed the decades-old grease, cleaned, painted everything etc. The original seals where the balls connect to the link look they were some sore of rubberized felt, about 3/16" thick. For $.99, I found a sheet of foam about the size of a piece of paper and about 5mm thick from Michaels Arts and Crafts, that seems like a perfect substitute. Its rigid but flexible, and compressible to seal everything good. I tested the foam to make sure it is grease resistant and it seems like it'll work.

I had my shocks rebuilt by Apple and went about cleaning up the shock links and other hardware. My question is if there is any guidance about how tight the endcaps of the links should screw in to the ends to secure the balls. Is it safe to assume to get it it tight and snug, but not so tight that the link won't articulate?

I bought a Duracell 6V battery from Bulbs and Batteries and found it to be adequate for an 826. Good Luck!

Hello -- Getting ready for a first drive in my 31 Standard 8. But, I want to swap out the trans, rear end, and steering gear lube before doing so-- is there a one-size-fits-all lube that I can use for all three? The manual I have has vague information in it. Also, I want to clean and repack the wheel bearings -- Does the castle nut need to be torqued to any precise number or is it just to get it snug to the point where there is a slight drag?

BTW, Straight Eight sells just the small ferrule that is soldered in place. No need to run the whole line.

The best part of this design is that Ukrainian hackers can't hack it and plant malware in it.

Thanks. I was able to get the old fitting off the head unit, and after inspecting I concluded the tube was part of the fitting and therefore, Max Merritt will be receiving $60 from me for a replacement line. Very interesting this hydro-static gauge. Looks like the industry only used them 5 years then went to electric sending units.

On a King Seeley gas gauge, how does the capillary tubing connect to the head unit? Mine is disconnected, but at the top of the head unit is a brass fitting with a small tubular extension coming out. Does the capillary tube slide into that then everything tightened for a compression fit?

Also, anyone know a supplier for King Seeley fluid? I understand a fluid with a precise specific gravity and resistance to fading is in order.