I am going to try the rebuild myself. I have two pumps, so I can break one casting and still have a spare. If I fail at two of them, then I purchase the new pumps from Meritt or Kanter.

Does anyone know if I need to press the shaft from the outside in, or inside out?

Thanks,

Mark

Before painting with cans or a gun, for final surface prep, what grit sandpaper should I be using on bare metal?

Thanks,

Mark

Hi all,

Now that I have the engine off to the machine shop, and the front fenders off of the car, I will be sending the body off to have the firewall painted. (The body will be sent off later to have that painted).

I have purchased some engine compartment paint and was going to paint the inner fenders. ...after proper prep-work has been done. But I am wondering if I should just send the inner fenders to be painted also.

I am assuming that the catalyzed paint will be grab better and be more durable, than an "air drying" paint. ...regardless of if it is an aerosol or I spray it with a gun.

Thanks,

Mark

I purchased a cover from California Car Cover. They are custom fit covers. ...but in reality, they are semi-custom, as my cover (on a 69 Galaxie) fits full-sized Fords and Chevys. So they have them in stock.

I called them up and told the rep what I wanted. ...an outdoor cover that was water repellant and remained pliable with snow on it.

After three months, it still repells. ...no snow yet tho.

Mark

If you pull a piece of the trim, it may still be painted the base color brown (of the woodgraining)on the back side. It seems that there are diffent shades (of brown) of the woodgrain that year too.

Good luck!

Mark

Thanks. In looking from the inside of the car, there are leak marks. So I'm assuming that is was disconnected for that reason. Just another part to attend to when I put this all back together again!

Thanks!

Mark

Hi all, Ok, forgive me if this is a dumb one/question. I had only drove the vehicle sparingly in the summer, so never had used the heat.

Is that the heater control valve (that has been bypassed) to the upper right of the heater core box in this picture?

This is on a 2271. Long wheelbase.

Thanks,

Mark

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To be clear... The block that cracked is the one that I used the additive in. (however, I am not attributing the crack to that). That block had previous water jacket corrosion that caused the re-crack. I mentioned that block but didn't finish my thought... When I pulled the head, there was alot of oily buildup in the cylinders. I'm wondering if it was the lead additive. I don't really feel that it was oil, but I could be wrong.

The block that I am rebuilding is in good condition and is at the machine shop. The machinist and I were discussing the installation of hardened seat inserts. ...not actually flame hardening. He doesn't have the equipment to do it.

The previous poster brings up a good point about sustained highway speeds. I will probably do some highway driving, so I may use the additive then.

Sorry for the confusion!

Mark

BTW... I had bought the replacement engine from Mike Dulinski. The engine turned out to be in great rebuildable shape. Thanks again Mike!

I have a 22nd 327cu...

I am having my engine rebuilt. I was running a lead additive prior to rebuild. (the block cracked due to an unseen previously welded crack that failed again) I am trying to determine whether or not to have the seats hardened.

Some people have told me to do it, and some have said just to run the additive. ...some have said with that low of compression, it's a non-issue. I do plan on running a 288cu head on the 327.

What do most people run with un-altered engines?

Thanks,

Mark

Update. I was out in the garage this weekend. I had just hit the nut and threads of the bolt, with the propane torch for about 5 seconds or so. The undercoating didn't burn or melt. But it is apparently so old and dry, that following up with a wire brush takes it off.

Although, I forgot how brittle these bolts are. Most of the bolts are breaking. The last time I removed a front fender, I think that I broke almost all of the bolts.

Interestingly, I found that the band clamp that holds the fresh air tube to the driver's side cowl was apparently mis-installed at the factory, and then undercoated. There was a big gap that had to be letting in water coming off of the front tire.

Thanks,

Mark