I'm evaluating a car that I don't have any direct experience with, but I expect the members of this group will, its a restored 110 convertible. Car is not located where I can easily inspect it personally, but I've has a pro outfit go out and do that, still waiting for a report. The car seems to be priced nicely, however the owner states it needs a clutch, so it not ready to use but based on a very complete photo set appears to be a really nice car. Near the fellow that is selling the car is a restoration shop that I believe he will allow the car to be moved to, very near his location. My pro inspection was visual, I'm thinking I could get this shop to evaluate the mechanically, would be interested in hearing some opinions on what would be worth checking. The previous owner did "engine work", no receipts available. The cars had a complete redo of the body and paint, this guy does that.The brakes have been redone hoses and master cylinders and wheel cylinders, pictures attached. I would think these sixes are relatively simple to fix (compared to seniors) but don't know their weak points. Any suggestions on what to look at?

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I have an update on my situation, turns out my initial optimism wasn't justified, and I'm still facing the issue. The engine was put back in the car and after and extended run it still has the issue, a real bummer. The thinking now is the case is cracked and when hot enough will allow the oil to leak.

Part of the reason to post this is as information that may benefit someone in a similar straights, at the back of the case the casting has a pathway from the rear main bearing the the point the oil pressure drives the instrument on the panel, the thinking is that the aluminum is cracked and when hot will open up and lose oil, a lot of oil. this was inspected, looked at it myself, nothing was apparent, but the car still loses the oil. Cracks in aluminum can be tough to locate.

I was skeptical when we had it out that that was my issue, the radiator was not attached to the engine, as a result the engine never got hot enough to fail, a garden hose was used to provide cooling water for a test.

In November before the engine was pulled I found a fellow who was selling a '34 engine without the accessories and I went and bought it.

The '35s engine previously had been overhauled, so it has all new internal parts, main bearings, crank, inserts, pistons etc, so the thinking is to move all this stuff on to the the 34 case.

I'd be interested any thought from anyone here on what may make sense at this point and any issues that may be encountered trying to do what I'm describing, at this point we haven't yet started to work the situation what I'm planning on is a follows:

- Buy some oil dye and run the car with that, the aluminum at the back of the case when the engine was pulled was very clean looking no hint of a leak, but I'm told that this is normal because the metal used back in the day cleaned up like this, can any one confirm that? I'm just not comfortable with guess work on what is causing the leak.

- Does the oil die work, have you seen it used with a situation like I'm facing?

- Will there be issues with a case from the 34 being used with all the other pieces from the '35. I'm wondering if moving the bearing blocks from one case to another would work and be in tolerance for the crank, or would the parts need to be redone (ouch!)

- would appreciate any thoughts on pitfalls with the engine work I may not know about, education seems expensive If I'm headed off in the wrong direction please tell me!

Thanks for all your input, an impressinve response to be sure. It appears that my problem was both simpler and harder to spot than I first thought. I initially hung a bucket that was cut down to fit under the leading edge of transmission, and held up by wires, thinking that if oil collected there, that it must be the source of the leak, that was not the case.

The engine was setup on a test stand today and run, and it appears that the problem is resolved. Apparently what was happening was that under pressure the seal at the oil float was allowing a stream of oil to run down the engine and with the car in motion, it was the atomized by the airsteam passing the car and appeared in the bucket by that means. The float gasket was apparently the cause of the loss.

I wasn't able to see this first hand so I going to the shop that did the work for me this weekend. Thanks for all the suggestions, I just hope this turns out to be the answer and I can enjoy the car in the spring with out hauling gallons of oil on every trip.

Regards
Bill

Greetings Forum users

I have had problems with oiling issues with my car since I bought it in 07, I started an overhaul in '10 and got the car back this spring, sadly the issues are still with me.

The car loses its oil at an alaming rate, about 4 quarts in 50 miles and is actually worse now than before the overhaul. The oil is exiting the engine at the scoop at the lower front part of the transmission, I used a collection device while driving to confirm this.

I went back to the shop that did the machine work and they have the motor back out of the car for examination, The rear main looks OK and there isn't anything obious wrong that would explain why the oil would be lost. Slinger return path seems open.

In June in a previous post it was suggested about 50 PSI was where the pressure should be set and thats what I did. The shop that did the work has reference that suggests lower pressure would be correct( not sure which one) but that makes me nervous after spending big $$$ for the engine work.

- Has any one heard of issues where the slinger or some other issue forces oil out when the engine that is running?

- Is the lower pressure likely to damge the engine, Motor has the insert bearings at this point and all new mains.

- The guage in the car shows 50lbs could this be reading low? Perhaps the pressure is higher than it seems?

- Could the pressure adjustment device on the side of the motor malfunction to cause this?

Thanks for any suggestions
Regards
Bill

Well, as I understand it, on the ends of the roller rocker assemblies where they come together behind the exhaust manifold there are plugs that allow the shaft that the rollers and lifters attach to be removed, one of these came adrift due to excessive pressure, this is how it was described to me. Does this make sense?

Just a follow up here I finally bailed on the do it yourself approach, and got some pro help, turns out the soft plugs were the source of the issue, on had apparently not been seated or "dimpled" correctly, as a result came
adrift and started shooting oil every where, problem solved.

I think I can help answer your question on distinguishing between the 2 types, there seems to be one clear difference in the photos I have, the model 18 only has one extra knob near the crank, while the model 30 has 2, this 18 is in the Ft Lauderdale Antique Auto Museum, an the model 30 is in a private collection I had the opportuinity to see in Galena last week.

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Just got back from Galena this aftrnoon, lovely rolling country side, river bluff country, A great resort Eagle Ridge, the town itself which downtown had many 19th century buildings, and some of the most lovely Packads anywhere.
In addition to the show the club arranged a tour of an outstanding local private collection which contained many Rolls Royces, A Thomas Flyer, and a 1910 Model 30 Packard that is mostly unrestored. A terrific event enjoy the photos!

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I just had my engine redone, new gasket etc did the machine the surfaces on the block and head?

I'm having issues with my '35 but I'm trying to get those sorted, I will probably be late to the party but I'm still gouing to try and make it with the car if possible, may get to drive a few events I hope, hate to show up driving modern, but hate to miss it even more.

Hope to see you there
Bill