In one of your first post you stated that you had the radiator cleaned and flow tested with no issue. So what would be the reason for moving to an aluminum rad? I wouldn't think starting with the "cheap stuff" as in having a new radiator made. As others have stated and suggested above you need to determine the source of your over heating.

I see that you mentioned using an infrared gun on the block looking for hot and cold spots, but did you check the radiator while it was overheating. Use the gun and scan the core for extreme changes in temperature of the core. Colder spots would indicated clogs in the core.You should see a gradual drop in temp working your way down the core.

It would be best to identify the problem instead of guessing and follow the suggestion provided by the users of this forum to aid in diagnosing.

Thanks
James From
Kanter Auto Products

The parts book tells all. Note that the 38-39 six and eight 1600-1, 1700-1 are not listed as they do not have cylinder head t-stats, they have radiator shutter t-stats. Then, of course, they do not have thermostat retainers.

As the shutter t-stats start opening at 135 degrees ( if they still work) it is possible to install a 180 degree thermostat and circular retainer and have modern performance.

I normally make a wooden buck to the shape that I want ultimately the piece to be. I have done this with many types of cast pieces. Than what I do is put the piece in question in the oven (when the wife isn't home) and let it warm for 2 hours or more at 450 degrees. I than slow bend the part back into with clamps to the contour of the buck that I made.

I will be doing this in the next couple of weeks on an antique rowboat motor. I will try to take some pictures.

Thanks
James From
Kanter Auto Products

None of our electrical components that we offer are made in China. They are either new, NOS or NORS. We take the quality of what supply to hobby very seriously. If you have an issue with a product that we supplied please feel free to reach out either to our customer service or myself.

Thanks
James From
Kanter Auto Products

As impossible as it seems a spring compressor is not needed due to Packard's incomparable engineering. We recently completed replacement of front springs on a '37 120 using the guidance of the '37 Shop Manual. What is needed is to loosen the 2 bolts on each side that hold the lower inner pin assembly, retract the nuts almost all the way.
Just when you think it won't work, while juggling all relevant parts the spring falls out.
Going back in is easier as you already learned the tricks.

Thanks
James From
Kanter Auto Products

We should be able to help you with your gasket needs. Please call and ask for either Stuart or Charod in our Packard department.

Thanks
James From
Kanter Auto Products

There was a Packard assembly facility in Puebla from 1940-1956. Cars were assembled in Detroit then "knocked down" by removing wheels, tires, gas tank and other such items.
Then they were replaced with Mexican made items.

There was a requirement that a certain percentage of the car had to be Mexican made in order to be imported at a low customs rate.

We purchased the entire parts stock of the facility from the O'Farrill family in about 1986.

Thanks
James From
Kanter Auto Products

The best place to find a starter switch or components is from one of your friendly Packard parts suppliers. Kanter Auto has both good used and perhaps new ones in stock.

Thanks
James From
Kanter Auto Products

Hi John,

Private message me when you order the brake cable from us. I have 4 number 8 pins I will send out with the order. Hope this helps you.

Thanks
James From
Kanter Auto Products

Our brake hardware kits are based off an industry standard. Meaning the kit contains the hardware that is most likely to fail do you excessive heat and movement. The anti rattle springs that go over the parking brake bar from an industry standard not considered a wear item and is not a standard part in a brake hardware kit. Pertaining to the problem with the hold down pins/nails that you received. Can you tell me what is the number stamped into the end of pins that came in the kit? It is normally either a one or two digit number? Also what was the number on your original pins?

We would like to resolve your issue.

Thanks
James From
Kanter Auto Products