HH56: YES!! THAT is the look. I love it. The bolts that hold the bumper and its supports to the frame are all under the car, and I THINK the sheet metal screws that hold the bumper gravel shield are all hidden under the rear trunk bodywork, so this SHOULD be as easy as:

1. Remove bumper with its supports from the frame of the car

2. Remove the gravel shield by removing the sheet metal screws that come into it from under the trunk

3. Mount a license plate bracket with built-in lamp or LED to light it, and mount the license plate to the bracket

TurboPackman: Clsoe but not quite correct. First, this particular car also changed the chrom piece above and around the signal lamps to body color. I want to keep that piece chrome, along with the bumper. ONLY the chrome piece onto which the signal lamps are mounted should be body colored. Secondly, the fact that the body color on your sample car is NOT black craetes an entirely different look. I want that central chrome piece to blend into the "black" radiator area, so that attention is focused on the upper chrome piece that follows the hood line. THAT is a Packard trademark I don't want to lose, and want to HIGHLIGHT.

Jim G

My buddy Randy, the mechanic, IS a veteran pro mechanic and hot rodder who in fact restores and hot rods cars. He is viewed by his boss at work as THE diagnostic expert.

He checked the voltage at the generator at idle and while I revved the engine, and pronounced it fine.

He also showed me that the voltage across the battery with the engine running was well above the static 6.15 volts I have seen when the ignition is "off", but I don't remember the reading he showed me.

Interestingly, when I took the car out yesterday, the day after we did the diagnostics, it exhibited the following behaviors:

1. The battery light did go "on" when the key was turned on, but then also went out immediately after the engine was started, each and every time. This happened all afternoon while I ran errands to 7 different places. I have no idea what "changed" from the evening before.

2. The signal indicator light in the instrument panel worked reliably MOST of the afternoon, but then towards the end of the afternoon, it started this behavior: when I tuirned on either the left or right signal, the indicator lamp in the instrument panel would flash 2 times, and then stop flashing. This happened most times, but not every time, after it began to happen. When I got home, I deliberately left the car running, turned on the left signal, and stepped outside the car to look at the actual singal lamps at the front and rear of the car. Both were flashing properly even though the instrument indicator lamp was not!

Today, a day later, I stpped out to the car, put the ignition switch into the accessory position, and activated the left signal. The exterior lamps flash properly AND the instrument light is again working correctly.

Do I have a Packard ghost resident within my car?

Jim G

Hmmm. How low does the voltage drop on a 6 volt car when cranking the starter?

Apparently, PerTronix does offer 6 volt systems, so they believe it works, but you might be right that even a low battery or just lots of cranking (e.g. when re-priming the float bowl) could cause it to not fire.

Has anyone out there actually RUN a 6 volt HEI system?

Jim G

On my '52 Packard 200 Deluxe, the chrome rear bumper and the front chrome signal lamp holder piece both have really pitted Korean War chrome finishes that have not withstood time very well.

I can't afford to consider having the piyts filled and the pieces re-chromed. Besides, the rear bumper also has some dents in its underside where the car was evidently at one or more points in its history pulled out of mud via a bumper hook.

As I thought about it, I started to wonder:

1. What would the car look like withOUT that rear bumper at all? I think maybe REALLY GOOD!

2. What would the front end look like if (only) that chrome piece that holds the signal lamps were to be smoothed and painted to match the body color (black)? Agaiin, just trying to stand in front of the car and visualize it, it SEEMED like it might look terrific.

Can someone out there who is skilled with photo editing software possibly rework the 3 photos I have attached to reflect these 2 changes?

Jim G

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Dan: Those are gorgeous, and EXACTLY right for the spirit of this car.

Once you also have the door panels done, are you considering offering these as kits to others? I'd be a serious potential buyer. I LOVE the look and texture, and like your Packard, my 200 is black exterior paint.

My interior was redone in the 1980s by a previous owner, but needs redoing again.

Jim G

TurboPackman: When will your HEI kit be available to us?

My Packard 200 is my daily driver, and this is an upgrade I want.

Also, since I need to add air conditioning sometime soon (100 degree days in Texas for the past 3 weeks straight), I will need to first change to 12 volt electrics (Vintage Air doesn't do 6 volt systems :) ). I assume your solution will handle either 6 volt or 12 volt, but not necessarily the same part? i.e. if I converted to your kit while still 6 volts, I would need to later chnage to a 12 volt kit?

Jim G

Follow-up question: My buddy also said the regulator assembly looks too good to be 56 years old. He spculates it was replaced at some point. He wonders if whoever replaced it asked whether or not these assemblies are polarity sensitive. Remember, the 1952 Packard is wired with a positive ground system. There was at least one model year of 6 volt negative ground befoe Packard went 12 volt.

Are these regulator assemblies polarity sensitive? i.e. are there two different part numbers depending on positive or negative ground, or does it not matter?

Jim G

My buddy and I are trying to track down a number of electrical gremlins plaguing my '52 Packard 200 Deluxe.

One of the issues we are addressing is that the battery light on the instrument panel lights up whenever the key is turned on of course, but then STAYS on even when the engine is running. True, it is not on very "bright" - merely a modest glow, but it should be going OFF, especially once the engine is revved.

My buddy, who is a skilled mechanic of 35 years experience tells me that he HAS checked the generator output, and it IS charging. He theorizes that the regulator settings might have drifted enough to be causing the problem. True?

As many of you know, these cars came from the factory with EITHER an Autlite or Delco electrical infrastructure. Mine has the Delco parts. The 3-part regulator contains a circuit breaker, a voltage regulator, and a current regulator. The voltage and current regualtors are contatc type and are adjustable, and the manual in fact gives the procedures for properly adjusting them.

My buddy will get the required equipment to do so (he no longer HAS that equipment laying around!). But, before we do that, is he on the right track in thinking that this may be the cause of the always glowing battery light?

Yes, the battery light does get BRIGHTER when the lights are turned on (confirming a higher rate of discharge), and does fade in intensity when the engine is revved, but never goes "out" entirely.

Anyone?

Jim G

TurboPackman: I am very new to this site, but already have seen that you know a LOT about Packards, engines, and more. Please keep the info coming.

I am trying to make my 1952 200 Deluxe into a reliable daily driver. I need advice o:

- HEI ignition

- Eliminating the "priming" of the carb after the car has sat

- Converting to 12 volt so I can add air conditioning (hey, I live in Texas, and 102 degrees without AC is no fun at all in your daily driver)

- A sensible approach to adding the required AC compressor drive

and much much more. PLEASE don't self-sensor just because some folks have different preferences than you do.

My "other" project is a 1955 Chevy pickup into which my buddy and I have transplanted a cammed 6 liter LQ9 from an Escalade, fiberglass leaf springs (cut the weight by 108 pounds AND lowered the truck by 4 inches), a Flaming River T-bucket steering box and custom-made Pitman arm, etc. When finished, it will be an under-3000 pound 1/2 ton pickup with 425 to 500 hp on tap (depends on how freeflowing an exhaust we can fit in there).

Jim G

Could I impose on you to send me those HEI instructions?

I have a 1952 Packard 200 with 288, and it is my daily driver!

Jim Gnitecki
JimGnitecki@msn.com