Good afternoon all...I am finally getting around to replacing some cracked but not broken glass in the driver's door on 'Miss Prudence'. I'm fairly sure that the auto glass company that is making the repair knows what the clip is like and how to remove it as they have been in business for 40 plus years, but I'm wondering if anyone has a drawing of the clips and how they should be removed. I looked in my parts book and just about everything else is illustrated...but not the clip...at least I did not see it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Ernie

Good Morning HH56 and Wes...I have followed your instructions with the great drawing and 'Miss Prudence' now honks as she should. Many, many thanks for your help. Ernie

Thank you HH56 and Wes Boyer...These drawings are a great help. I'll play with this tomorrow and report back. Ernie

Good afternoon all...I took 'Miss Prudence' for about 25 miles from Scottsdale to Fountain Hills for breakfast and she trundled along just fine. Just before I arrived home, I went to use the horn to move a coyote and it did not honk.

I have repaired this system twice and had it working. The last time it quit, the wire had twisted off at the brass fitting that sits on top of the steering wheel bolt. I have looked at Plate 78 in the parts book and it shows everything but the brass fitting and what I think is a little contact spring that goes on top of it.

The only thing that I can think of is that the fitting is not slipping and is rotating back and forth and chrystalizing the wire. I guess my question is 'should there be a fairly stiff little spring on top of the brass fitting or is a contact at that point necessary?

I will admit that at times 'Miss Prudence' decides to toy with me and this is one of those times.

Thanks, Ernie

Just absolutely excellent fabrication and design work. My hat is off to you. As well as my shirt, socks and shorts! Ernie

Nice...Ernie

Good afternoon Tolandis...Another possibility would be to take the seat bottom to a local upholstery shop. I have seen repairs made by removing the material and laying it on a piece of back up material and then running stitches the same way as the stripes. This approach will not be overly expensive, but will give the fabric strength. When this is done with care, it looks like it was deliberate and some folks might think it way factory! Good Luck! Ernie

Good Evening all...Our 1949 Deluxe is the same. All of the 'Ivory' sort of matches, or is in the same family of color, but they are not all the same shade. 'Miss Prudence' seems to have had pretty good care over her life. She has 48,000 miles on her. I just wonder if all of the stock knobs and the knobs on the extra items that were dealer installed were the exact same color. For a perfect match, one might have to paint all of the items with the same color. Someone must have a very low milage machine that can tell us if their handles all match. Ernie

Good Morning all...Just a humble comment. I would agree with O.D. that the only proper change would be an overdrive. I have an R11 in our 1949 packard Deluxe and it works very well.

I also have a 1931 Model A Tudor with a Mitchell Overdrive. It is a gear splitter that gives the Model A six speeds forward. In low overdrive, the car is a normal Model A that cruises at 40 miles an hour.

In overdrive, it sort of depends on how strong your engine is and how good your brakes are. Ours just has a lightly higher compression head and a Model B carburator, our mains and rods are babit, and in overdrive she is happy at 55 miles an hour.

The key is that the only change to the car, is the overdrive, and the car has not been cut up/changed so that the driving experience is not as it was when the car was built when not in overdrive.

Mostly, I go 40 to 50. I like to look at the flowers...If I want to go fast, then I drive the Packard or a modern machine...Ernie

10-4. I'm involved in a roofing project the 7th through the 11th and then I'm free. Ernie