The removable counter weights need to have the plug and the heads milled (drilled) out. Remove the counter weight, and then the remaining stud.

To assemble after grinding, normally counter sink to accept a standard allen bolt. This will make tear down a snap for the next guy.

Shop rate if we remove bolts for customers is $350.

"Best idea is to find something else to obsess about and spend the extra time drivign and enjoying your Packard with the hood closed"

Understood, but one thing that personally drives me nuts is those who spend hard earned money with a great external restore just to pop the hood to find old, chipped, rusted paint sitting in there. It really kills the car.

Personally for me, the Engine compartment is the Heart Beat of the car and should be hidden away to only be heard and never seen.

Maybe im just a little too picky about attention to details.

A little 526 Engine Porn as I call it.

Attach file:

---

  (164.70 KB)

PM me or go to Michianapackard.com

A little hub restoration on the 1924 Stude in the shop, almost ready to paint

Also, a little speedometer rebuild in the works

Attach file:

---

  (250.26 KB)


  (151.52 KB)


  (263.88 KB)


  (169.41 KB)


  (208.53 KB)

no 320's in 56

Sorry, all of mine are Automatic

Let me check my stock

Fred-

If this is of any help in your quest.

Just took in a customers 56 Pat. TV failure straight to the floor. When I picked up the car made a few inquiries leading up to the event.

No prior issues, always stopped well. Last system flush greater than 3 years.

At Pick up, TV was again operational and great operation with very light pedal pressure. Theory: expecting to find some particulate matter in fluid and must have temporarily held the compensator open causing customer floor drop.

Tear down- unit was pristine internally. Every seal, rubber, leather components undamaged and looked to only be weeks or months old.... Absolutely no pitting or wear on hydraulic stainless piston, it too looked new.

Two issues found: Aged fluid just started to breakdown forming hardened particulates in the reservoir. 2nd, someone had used JB weld and sealed off the vent port. First time I have seen that, I have had a few units brought in that were blocked off from use of a gallon of silicone ( we know who does that)

Lines flushed wheel cylinders rebuilt, a new Kanter kit and TV is back in action.

if needed, I have several bumpers

All good points from Howard. I will also ad, how did the builder set the control valve on the valve body? As Howard pointed out the pressure and position is critical. If the Land was not set properly to 5/16" your pressures will not be correct at the correct points.

Also something to consider, was new clutches installed? The original clutches have a slight cup to them. The new aftermarket clutches are completely flat. new clutches leaves excessive slop in the clutch packs and thus takes the clutch piston longer to react as it has to take up the excess slack. Several of us Ultra builders add extra steels and or clutches to take up the slack. You want to get as little space in there as possible for quicker lock up.