My carburetor has returned from Daytona Carb, and looks great! New fuel pump also went on the engine, now I have to get my fuel tank back....Spring has Sprung here, and it would be nice to drive my Packard again soon.

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I took a detour from engine work to put in the Convertible top valve. When installing, First attach the Hydraulic lines, then attach the switch to the Firewall. That makes it much easier to screw in the 4 Hydraulic lines.
The wiring was also in terrible condition, so I was very pleased to replace that. The wiring to the circuit breaker, switch and solenoid is a small stand alone harness, so it was easy to replicate.

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Blessed be thy friends and colleagues that have a lathe!
This fits perfectly on the crank nose and in the timing cover. After I put everything together, I could share/lend this to the common cause in case anybody else is doing the same job in the future. My project feels like it moves like a glacier, slowly but surely.

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Getting back to the seal on the Timing cover. If I can find a section of pvc pipe or plastic that has 49mm outside diameter and 34mm inside diameter, I should be able to make a home made arbor....

The push pull knob rotates the bottom of the valve (bakelite part with the copper ring) the Ring then makes contact to that copper Pole coming down from the terminal with the screw and 2 nuts.
At the end of travel for push pull, there is continuity to energize the solenoid on the pump motor.
I just checked with a multi Meter!

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My other construction zone this winter is to get the Convertible top working.
The control valve came back from HydroElectric.
Looks great, hope it works as well as it looks.
I'll take some pics and measurements for Darryl who was asking about one little part of the valve.

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I was thinking about looking at the hardware store to see if there is a small plastic section of pipe I can find that would help... I can measure the ID and OD and see if I find something to cut to size.

Hi Jerome, good question about aligning the cover. I am not sure. I dont have the aligning Tool that they mention in the Shop manual, so I will have to improvise something.
The backing plate to the cover was not removed, so maybe the position was retained?
I was hoping with some measuring and eyeballing I could get it centered.
Any suggestions or tricks for making an aligning arbor?

Allright, things are starting to go back together.
Before, I had set the engine to TDC on cyl1 and the dot on the camshaft sprocket was at 12:00. I turned the engine one rotation with the old timing chain back on, so the camshaft dot was at 6:00, and the crankshaft dot was at 12:00. Then I was able to get the new sprockets aligned and slide the new chain on! I torqued the camshaft nut to 150 ft lbs and hammered over an ear on that washer thing to hold that nut in place.

The old chain wasn't real bad, but I think this one will be better. I watched a few episodes of Classic Car Restoration, and the episode of the timing chain was quite helpful!

Now to finish painting things and start putting this engine back together.

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If the 51-53 cam is 5 degrees advanced compared to the 54 cam gear, that might actually not be a bad thing.
Seems like that would move peak torque down about 300 rpm. I do not really rev the car too high. My clipper rarely got over 2500 rpm, so adjusting the 359 for a little more torque down low and perhaps lowering the Max horsepower at the 3600-4000 rpm should actually be ok with me.
Here is a description of what adjusting cam Timing does to Performance from summit.

cam timing