Wow...57 views and zero reply's.

Is this thing on??? tap...tap...tap...squeal?!?!?!?

;O

I installed a Holley Projection 4DI on a small block mopar about 12 years ago. OK-ish system.

If you were going to install FI on a Packard engine you will need a 12 VDC (actually 13.5 VDC) negative ground electrical system and the cooling system will really need an upgrade because the EFI will be burning the fuel at close to 12.5:1 in closed loop and that is rather hot for the old Packard cooling system to absorb.

I am running steel lines from the fuel pump to the glass bowl filter but do not have the fuel pump heat shield installed (did not have one) and on one hot day (95-ish F) after idling following a high speed cruise I could watch the fuel boiling (bubbling at least with the bowl half empty) inside the glass bowl while the engine was running. The engine was idling fine so I forgot to test if the electric fuel pump would provide enough pressure to prevent the bubbling.

And yes...the CARB fuel is not good in the carb.

Where does your engine temperature gauge indicate when the engine is definitely warmed up on a warm day?

On this engine I have installed a 6 blade radiator fan, the system is pressurized with the radiator cap, and I also have installed a overflow bottle and I know that the water diffuser tube is solid and installed correctly and the radiator is clean, and I used a 150 degree thermostat.
(all this being said to demonstrate that the cooling system is in a known serviceable condition).


It seems that after a drive in relatively hot air 90 degrees F that the temperature gauge reads at approximately the 80% of its scale near the H position.

I ran an infrared thermometer on the thermostat neck and it was showing about 210 degrees. The head was significantly harder as would be expected. Next time I have it on the lift I will check the lower radiator output temperature with the engine warmed up.

The gauge does seem to stay about the same range even when cruising down the highway at 60 miles per hour.

Was the 150 degree thermostat a good idea? What is the stock thermostat temperature set for?

I have been having issues with the fuel being boiled out of the carburetor after the engine has been warmed up and sits for a half hour or so.

I did install a glass bowl fuel filter this time and I can tell after opening up the hood that the glass bowl is half empty (yes I'm pessimistic on this) and can even watch the fuel boiling inside the float bowl.

So to start the engine after it is hot the starter motor would have to turn and turn for a very long period of time before any fuel can get pumped into the carburetor float bowl. At least this car has an electric pump so 10 seconds with the electric pump on is the fix.

I have had issues with other cars having the fuel boil out of the carburetor. This has been the case with small block Mopars, big-block Mopars, slant six Mopars, & a Cadillac engine.

It seems the new fuel here in California has such a low boiling point that it simply boils out of the carburetor after the engine sits for a while.

Does anyone else have this issue?

My experience with removing an oil pan on a 327 is back a couple
of pages... haspicturess of the crankshaft having tobe turned so that #1 is at the halfway up in its bore position so you slip the oil pan off.

I know that when I reinstalled the pinion nut that I did not get anywhere near 200 pound feet. It did seem somewhat lite but I was not using a torque wrench as I was just using a regular ratchet and lining up the marks. I did not think that the nut could go another 360 degrees around but maybe that is the answer... just whack it on another turn.

I did take the drive shaft off again and apply a little bit more pressure on the nut and that might have made it a bit quieter but I cannot really tell for sure

If someone has a new sleeve then I will be happy to buy it.

Hi All,

I found the problem!!!

It appears that the new rubber diaphragm in the electromagnetic clutch actuator slipped out from in between the two metal discs.

Strange symptom because when the engine is idling and when the electromatic clutch switch was pushed in the engine would simply quit. Kind of seemed like an ignition shorting out issue because there was no sputtering...just engine stopping as if the ignition switch was turned off. No strange noises or hissing sound...just shut down.

To deduce whether the issue was electric or mechanical (vacuum) I revved the engine up to high idle and then when the clutch switch was pushed the engine would still run but at a much slower idle and sputtered a bit.

So as to ensure nobody else falls for the same trick I did, make sure that the fused on washer is placed on the OUTSIDE of the two discs (not sandwiched in between).

See attached PDF with pictures of what I am talking (typing) about.

THANKS again for all of your suggestions.

Attach file:

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Yes... I love my dad.

This project was fun for the first 5 months... now... I am looking forward to getting this car out of my garage...

I would be happy to donate to the Packard club and pay for shipping... I do not have the dimensions of the sleeve because it is in the car and I am using the car to test and fix other issues.

Does anyone have the dimensions for our cyber friend?

Thanks everyone for the advice. I will get a new sleeve.

Prior to removing the engine and transmission the Electromatic clutch worked fine. Even after installing the new engine it worked fine up until this week.

Now when the engine is idling and you push the Electromatic clutch switch in, the engine will either completely stop operating as if the ignition was grounding out or the idle will drop considerably.

The idle dropping does not make sense because it would seem that the Electromatic clutch introducing a vacuum leak would cause the engine to speed up and not slow down. Does anybody have any tips or suggestions on troubleshooting this issue?