Well, gregor's car still isn't running for longer than a few seconds at idle....From what I have researched, a 1.5 ohm internal resistor coil is good for a pertronix unit, which can handle up to 8 amps. Gregor still has points, which can handle only 4-5 amps. So, I think an external resistor is ('doch' -german for 'actually') needed. (I'm saying 1.5ohm 100Watt resistor in series before the coil should help keep the coil cool and constant)
The points that are in the car are still light grey in color and not blue, so I think he was cooking ocils faster than burning points.

His 4bbl carb is also in need of some help. The accelerator pump was only sparying about 1 drop per stroke into the primary bores from one nozzle. From what I remember, that accel pump should shoot a nice 'water pistol' like shot per stroke of the gas pedal.

Yesterday the car would start, idle a minute and die when given gas...today the tank will get some more gas, and see if that helps.

The pistons are of the steel strut construction, and as I said in my first post, they are +0.020 oversize.
Never heard of gudgeon offset....
Thanks for your input. Will talk to the engine builder today, and will be going with the original clearance specification.

Hi Guys,
A question from my engine builder. He is getting ready to bore my cylinders for the +.020 pistons I got from Kanter, and he didn't believe the original spec from packard for the skirt to cyl wall clearance of 0.0005" to 0.001" He says this is like the clearance a modern engine runs, and that the engine would sieze shortly after start up if we run these clearances....

I already got a reccomendation from Ross that this spec is still valid. (with closer to 0.001" or 0.03mm being preferred)
A call to Kanter and they also stood by the original packard spec.

So, before I convince my engine builder who is pretty experienced (albeit more with old daimlers and the occasional SBC or SB Ford) that this spec is correct, anybody want to weigh in on this?

If I understand correctly, the steel (Steel is correct?) struts in the pistons keep the thermal expansion low, which allows these tight clearances of the cyl?

The engine builder speaks with a pretty strong bavarian accent, so I have to struggle to understand him, and convincing him on this is also going to be fun.

Thanks! -Mike

Saw this one and the only packard at the Suttgart Retro Classic a little while ago....125k Euro what a steal!

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Hi Gregor.
I think 1.5 Ohm is correct.


here is a chart from pertronix for reference.

http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/chart.aspx

My transporter admitted to going to autozone and carquest to look for packard parts
I chastized him and he will try napa next...I imagine they should be able to be of more help.

Hi Guys, a friend visiting from the US is going to bring me a few parts over in his luggage, and I'd like to be able to define which battery cable I should have him get at the FLAPS (fav local auto parts store) I see from the Xref Standard A301 is listed, but does anybody know the length, and the size of the terminal on the starter?
My car is 12V so #0 would be good, but not a must like for a 6V car.
Thanks guys.
Tobs

Howard and Ross, thanks for the help! Now everything is clear with relays and wiring. I already bought a relay and a small harness at a place called 'Conrad' here in Munich. It is like Radio Shack, except 4 times the size, and the people there really know what the are talking about. The harness/connector has 18awg wire in it, so I will swap that out for some thicker wire, and also put an inline fuse holder between the terminal on the starter solenoid and the relay.

More movement on the OD Front. Ross worked out a 12 Stude Solenoid for me (Dankesch?n!), and I am looking into what I actually need for the relay. Most Relays that I know (headlight etc) switch when the signal line gets 12V. Then the output gets bridged to the Battery terminal. The OD relays have 4 terminals, which confuses me.
1)To Batt 12ga
2)To Solenoid on OD 12ga
3)Ignition switch 16ga
4)Switch (kickdown and govenor in series) 16ga

How do the switches work? Do they give the relay a 12v signal to make it switch or do they complete a ground to make the relay turn on? Ignition switch gives 12V to the relay to 'arm it' but then does then what happens? Not certain which modern relay I can hook up here.
Thanks guys!

Well, soon I will have studs coming out my ears. I was able to remove several studs from my old cracked block, but my stud remover left a nice gouge in each stud I removed, which kind of makes me not want to use them for such a critical place like a cylinder head. Anyway I tagged a complete set of new -rolled thread/ interference fit- studs from Kanter onto my rebuild kit...

After removing the first stud, I had to figure out how to get the remover off the stud! That thing wedges itself onto the stud and wouldn't let go! Before the stud was all the way out, I would place the handle of a screwdriver between the remover and a neighbor stud and torque the whole then backwards to loosed the stud remover....
I had looked through ARPs catalog, but they don't list many parts by dimension, only appliaction. I bet a rolled thread 7/16-20 x 3 1/8 should be readily available compared to 3 3/32 long.
And BlackBeerd, I did also call to make certain the correct oversizes are in stock. The block will first be bored out when the shop has the pistons, so they can measure the pistons and then add on the specified bore clearance to the cyl size.
-Mike