My theory is that when you had the coolant gushing out the stud hole, that it went into the intake or exhaust port and then down the cyl into the sump. I could see a cup of water doing this, but not a whole lot...Or perhaps the coolant gushing out the stud hole just flowed into the valve cover and then directly into the oil sump? -Also the fuel pump is there, could have been the coolant go in through there somehow. Was oil leaking on that side of the car when it was running?
This would be the most optimistic scenario with no cracked blocks and assorted doom and gloom. If you have the stud back in place, you could re-fill the coolant system and pressure test that. Easier than a compression test, or head removal.

Here's another packard made in (occupied) Japan.

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Danke Gerd!
Thinking I'll go with the magnetic drain plugs. I'll call the Powerzentrum tomorrow and see if they have a 5/8-18 plug which will fit the engine, and also the rear axle.
Looking through the parts list, the manual trans oil drain plug is listed as simply 1/2. I guess this is 1/2 NPT right?
From what I see online Harleys also have a 5/8-18 drain plug, so there might be some chance to get one over here!

So, I measured the oil filter housing at about 4,5 inch diameter. The filtermag RA450 truck series for 78 euro here in germany should fit, but of course is the most expensive. You have one on a packard, and/or know if one of the cheaper car models also fit on a packard canister filter?

Hmm, it seems like I should be a little careful, some of these super strong magnets can only take up to 80 or 150 degrees C (150 should be ok) and they can also be brittle....

Hi guys, does anybody run a magnet in the engine oil pan, or inside the oil filter? It seems like dropping a magnet in the filter would be easy enough, and also easy to clean. Inside the auto trans pan is common, I was thinking about getting one of these magnets and either leaving it in the bottom of the engine oil pan, or between the oil filter and housing. Thoughts? pro/con.

Tobs

You guys were right on, all the trim came off, except the antenna, which got soaked some more with penetrating oil and I'll try again at another date.
Stainless Trim cleaned and put away in a safe place, all the small clips are soaking in metal-ready for a day of rust removal. A labor of love. But I miss driving a packard!

Thanks OD! I was just looking for 'kupfer spray' and liqui-moly, one of the 'made in germany' suppliers seems to have what I need. The copper spray is also suggested by the gasket mfg on their website.

Hi guys, 1951 288 is going back together. Head gasket from kanter has one side copper and the other side is steel/alu?
Which side goes to the block and to the head? I can't find this in the shop manual or at the 'best gasket' website.

Torque and sequence I already found.

Thanks!

Thanks for the responses! I soaked the antenna in 'caramba' the local penetrating oil here, and hope to get back to the car on the weekend.